I did the beep test on the trans switch first. no beep, crapola now I think I have to drain the tranny to change that.
While it no longer matters since they're working now, it's worth noting that there's no reason to drain the transmission if the switch is bad. It's well above the pan. You'll lose
some fluid but not a ton, especially if you work quickly.
Idling around 1000, when I brought it up to 1900 that seemed way fast for fast idle, if I had a clutch to pop shed burn out!
Idle should be set at 850RPM at hot idle. 1,000RPM is too high; she'll give a mighty lurch when you put 'er in gear. Regardless, you can't do any tuning until you fix the idle RPM. If backing the screw out causes it to stall, find out why.
Fast idle is only in effect when the choke is closed, i.e. the engine is cold. Its function is to get the engine up to temp more quickly.
1,900RPM is the factory specification. Generally speaking, nobody moves the car until the fast idle has come down a bit as the choke opens, i.e. running for 15-30 seconds, give it a quick throttle blip, and the fast idle comes down. Fast idle should never come into play on a warm engine.
After it was warm I rechecked the timing, I'm holding around the 10BTDC, vac still around 10. if I rev it a bit it jumps up at 2000 she's 15-17.
Vacuum at RPM means nothing, since it will always increase with RPM under partial throttle. You only care about it at idle once that's set (850RPM). I'd expect to see more vacuum at
850RPM than you're seeing at 1,000. Is the needle steady or is it shaky/jittery? If so, there's probably a vacuum leak.
on to the turn signals, don't know if it's correct but they only work with the car running, still had no blink on passenger side, changed the rear bulb & they finally worked.
The turn signals should work with the ignition key in "RUN" regardless of whether the engine itself is actually running. They do not work with the key off, but the hazards do.
I messed with the mixture screws some didn't seem to do much?
If you didn't have an idle of 850RPM, why would you touch them? The directions I posted were pretty specific. None of it works if you try "close enough" or you can't get results "so I'll just move on to the next thing." Until you have the first step done as instructed, you can't do the second or any other. If the engine's not idling, you can't mess with idle mixture, period. If you can't get it to idle at 850, find out what's wrong. Here's a hint: It's
not the idle mixture. You've already entered tail-chasing territory. Start over with the idle speed screws, both hot and cold/fast, and the idle mixture screws 1/2 turn from seated. If you can't get it to idle at 850RPM with the engine fully up to temperature, leave the carburetor alone and find out why it won't idle--even badly--at the factory-specified RPM.
Along with a jittery vacuum reading, ineffective idle mixture screws are a strong indication of a vacuum leak, as is an inability to set curb idle. If you're on the carb's main circuit--i.e. your idle is set too high, which it is--the mixture screws will have little to no effect since the throttle plates are open enough to bypass the idle circuit entirely.
If I had to guess, I'd bet you've got a vacuum leak between the intake and head.
