Project Fur-Kota!

Got the Fury Turned last week then went out of town with the family I'm on shutdown for the next two weeks so I have to make the best of this time. I got the slant all unhooked and pulled the rad out of the Fury. I need to start taking the wiring out of the major body parts of the Dakota. I also have to find an engine hoist to pull the slant out.

hey 69dart340 check your PM's;)
 
you could unbolt the crossmember and drop engine and transout the way the fatory did it then all you need is jack and jack stands...its actualy easier to do it this way ALOT easier
 
since the motor is on a subframe that goes right under the front seat I think I'd have to unbutton too much of the front end to do the "Out the bottom" move. I also want to keep as much of the front end together as possible for the fabricator to measure off.
 
69dart340 droped off the hoist this morning despite the rain and gave me a huge kickstart by hanging around and helping me get the trans unhooked I might have been in real trouble with the TQ bolts had he not stayed to help. The trans is down and out from under the car. tomorrow the weather is supposed to clear up so I can get the nose out of the garage and pull the slant. Should be short work without the trans in there. It feels like this might actually happen finally. I am a happy camper. Thanks to all for suport and constructive criticism. Time to go pick up the kids. :) :) :) :)
 
do yourself a favor..measure from the wheel well moulding to the ground before pulling the slanty..so you can uncrank the T-bars so she sits at the right height WITHOUT the slanty weight up front or some of your measurments are going to get totaled
 
your just doing some of the stuf ive done..just using different bits and peices...you may also find even after cranking the t-bars down you may still need to add some weight up front to bring the nose back down..free weights or...........some 5gal buckets of water hung on a 2x4...or set on the hood
 
what's a good members progress thread without some pics...

HPIM1608.JPGso here is one of the front sub frame attaching points just behind the front right wheel
HPIM1603.JPGthe rear end of the subframe which includes the trans x-member
HPIM1602.JPG something missing?
 
HPIM1606.JPGDrivers side framerail showing a little bit of work
HPIM1607.JPGnice looooong torsion bar
HPIM1609.JPGbuisness end of the slanty.
 
your just doing some of the stuf ive done..just using different bits and peices...you may also find even after cranking the t-bars down you may still need to add some weight up front to bring the nose back down..free weights or...........some 5gal buckets of water hung on a 2x4...or set on the hood

The front end of the car was apart when I put 69 nyer brakes on the front end and I never did set the front ride height after that, so I'm not sure what to set it at but I'll look at the drawings from the fsm (page one of this thread) when I moved it with my frineds and backed it into the garage the nose was nice and low the car looked really mean. :)
 
lol whoever cut that fender and repainted it did it askew :P

well basicaly you just want it low enuf so that the car isnt sitting up like a gasser with the engine out4-8 inches from the k-mamber to the ground should be a good base line
 
My old jack had a slow leak which would go away when you loaded the jack but it has been getting harder and harder to set the seals on the upstroke so I went out and bought a new one today. The display at canadian tire has a nice 3 ton speedlift jack with 20 inch high max, but when I try to find the same jack underneath on the shelves its a 3 ton without the speed lift and it only goes 18 and change inches plus the one on the shelf in nice and shiny red easy to see on the floor of the garage and the other 3 ton is black. I went in to tell them I wanted to buy the one on display and the guy says that's an old one that's been on display for 4 + years and he wont sell it to me. I telll him I'd rather have that then the one on the shelf because it is clearly a better unit, no deal. GRRRR if you don't sell that jack anymore take it off the GD display so I dont get my hopes up. :mad: so I bought a lesser jack equivalent to my original piece and a creeper. should have bought the whole works somewhere else but time was short and I have to get 69swinger340 his hoist back. :huh:
 
My old jack had a slow leak which would go away when you loaded the jack but it has been getting harder and harder to set the seals on the upstroke so I went out and bought a new one today. The display at canadian tire has a nice 3 ton speedlift jack with 20 inch high max, but when I try to find the same jack underneath on the shelves its a 3 ton without the speed lift and it only goes 18 and change inches plus the one on the shelf in nice and shiny red easy to see on the floor of the garage and the other 3 ton is black. I went in to tell them I wanted to buy the one on display and the guy says that's an old one that's been on display for 4 + years and he wont sell it to me. I telll him I'd rather have that then the one on the shelf because it is clearly a better unit, no deal. GRRRR if you don't sell that jack anymore take it off the GD display so I dont get my hopes up. :mad: so I bought a lesser jack equivalent to my original piece and a creeper. should have bought the whole works somewhere else but time was short and I have to get 69swinger340 his hoist back. :huh:

My old 3 ton floor jack has a leak somewhere in the system and will bleed down after you jack something up. I've had this old floor jack for probably 15 years now. I went to princess auto to get a "New" 3 ton jack...well guess what it could barely lift the front end of the wagon, more a glorified 1.5 ton if that. So I returned it and complain bitterly about the over rating of there jacks, the guy told me he knew about it and I'd be better off repairing my old unit. I'm sure I'd have to buy a 6 ton to get the same lifting capacity as my old unit.
 
The slant is out and sitting in a nice little corner of the driveway with the trans. :dance:
 
The Cars are going to the shop Sept 1st. When it leaves the shop it should be a roller with some plumbing (fuel and brakes) and finish work to be done, then paint.

Pics of the disassembled cars and dakota inteior carnage soon to follow.
 
well here are some photos of the truck as it stands today I pulled the column and dash today and got the MC's for the brakes and clutch unhooked and pulled the main harness through the firewall. parts are starting to build up in the basement. I have tried to be thorough labeling the harness as I pull it out but I've been getting lazy, Thank God for my Dakota FSM!
 

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