My 71 Duster work in progress

Coil is probably 3/4 it's a shame but all manufacturers don't work with the same setups!
You can try copper one size smaller on the inside, may be a little loose but you can braze it in.
Too bad your so far I saved a bunch of old copper line set leftovers, let me see what I have I can ship em to you if your not in a rush?
 
UPS might have lost my pushrods. They've been in IL since Friday. Earlier today they were saying delivery today but I knew better. Now it's tomorrow.

Update - it finally moved, should be delivered today if their system can be believed.
 
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I swear, tracking numbers are somewhere between false hope and outright shenanigans. I sent a USPS Priority Mail envelope on Thursday, and it said "Accepted by post office" for five days, but no movement afterward. I called the post office yesterday to inquire and was assured it left on the truck that day. Obviously it wasn't scanned when it did. Last night it suddenly appeared in Chicago, where it magically arrived after somehow skipping both Green Bay and Oshkosh on tracking, despite having to travel through each. It wouldn't be that big a deal, except there's a cashier's check in it of not-inconsequential amount.
 
The pushrods actually showed up via USPS, who I trust 10x more than UPS anyway.

They're in now but not adjusted. I'm already too freaking tired from this treatment, but it ain't going to get any better so I have to sack up and get it done sooner not later.

Testosterone is important.
 
Slow & easy are the words, do what you can without too much strain, get yourself healthy again, the car will be waiting to haunt you again!
That's the plan. Hoping to get it done though because things aren't going to improve any time soon, I've got 42 treatments ahead of me.

BTW the nephew got the piece needed for the HVAC and is working everything around to get it off the exhaust.
 
Good to hear on both counts, now what do Ido with all that copper!
Wonder if it's worth more as scrap than the gas it costs to get there?
 
Testosterone is important.
😄 Very important. In fact, it gives me a boner!

They're in now but not adjusted. I'm already too freaking tired from this treatment, but it ain't going to get any better so I have to sack up and get it done sooner not later.
You've got 'em installed, so adjusting can wait until you have a bit more energy. Of course,

I've got 42 treatments ahead of me.
... and if I've learned anything, your energy will be steadily depleted over the course of those. It saps energy you haven't even gotten back yet. So, y'know, if you can get after it this weekend, it might be more doable than next weekend.

By no means am I suggesting you rush things or over-exert yourself. You've gotta take care of Bob first and foremost.

Slow & easy are the words, do what you can without too much strain, get yourself healthy again, the car will be waiting to haunt you again!
Agreed 100%, and I'll add "Follow the doctor's orders no matter how you feel". Unlike you, he's been through this previously if only as a spectator. If he tells you not to push your rod too soon, it's because he knows you shouldn't. I've no great love of doctors (based on a long history of them not listening to me) but when it comes to healing it's well worth heeding what they say.
 
your energy will be steadily depleted over the course of those
Yes, it's not going to get any easier as this goes on. I'm hoping to be back to normal around Spring 2025.
Wonder if it's worth more as scrap than the gas it costs to get there?
No it probably is not :) My nephew was telling me you have to break stuff down into component metals to get good money out of it. I said I don't care because the point to me is to get rid of junk, not to make a living at it. No way am I spending days busting up parts into steel, aluminum, other, to make an extra fifty cents.

I do have to disassemble the A/C unit to get it on the back of the truck. It's one of those old 80-90s huge Trane units and it weighs a ton. But the most I'm doing it taking it apart at the screws so I can pick it up
 
Oh I hated Trane, my dealer switched from rheem to trane , I sold it for a year or so & then just dropped it, big bulky Heavy units & the air handlers had to have a bigger hole to get them in the attics, good brand but not worth a heart attack! I did just fine selling Rheem!

I made money on it for years, prices were all over the place, but I only separated the good stuff copper, brass & aluminum.
Cast iron boilers were good to for a while, tin was always next to nothing, one guy made you pay 10 bucks to dump it if you had no good stuff when prices were low.
I was adding a couple of hundred a week back then it was well worth it I had to get rid of the old units anyway so it was win win for me.
 
The pad under the Trane had sunk into the ground. I don't think it was necessarily the unit weight but it did happen. We used the same pad for the new tiny unit. FYI it's a 3 ton.
 
Successful day yesterday. Removed the plugs so I could turn the engine over by hand. Broke two spark plugs, dropped a 3rd one and broke it. Perfect. I just walked out and locked the door behind me after that.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong, maybe using too long of an extension or not holding things perfectly aligned for the angled plugs. IIRC that makes 5 plugs I've broken since this shitshow started.
 
Successful day yesterday. Removed the plugs so I could turn the engine over by hand. Broke two spark plugs, dropped a 3rd one and broke it. Perfect. I just walked out and locked the door behind me after that.
Well, you know when to say when. It's better than continuing and making everything worse.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong, maybe using too long of an extension or not holding things perfectly aligned for the angled plugs. IIRC that makes 5 plugs I've broken since this shitshow started.
Well, all A-engines have angled plugs so there's nothing magical there. Is the socket touching the header flange? I had that problem on my Cordoba. I had to clearance the flanges for the plug socket.

Use a swivel on a proper spark-plug socket with just long-enough an extension to clear the valve cover. Turn 'em just enough to get 'em loose, then remove them the rest of the way with an old spark-plug boot or a piece of hose forced onto the end.
 
Well, you know when to say when. It's better than continuing and making everything worse.


Well, all A-engines have angled plugs so there's nothing magical there. Is the socket touching the header flange? I had that problem on my Cordoba. I had to clearance the flanges for the plug socket.

Use a swivel on a proper spark-plug socket with just long-enough an extension to clear the valve cover. Turn 'em just enough to get 'em loose, then remove them the rest of the way with an old spark-plug boot or a piece of hose forced onto the end.
I thought it might be the rubber socket insert that kept pulling out of the socket, but with a new socket, no that's not it.

That's exactly the way I take them out, break them all loose, then go back with the socket and extension and spin them out by hand. They are breaking as soon as I start turning with that sick little snap that you know isn't the threads breaking free.

Oh well. Maybe I'll try something other than a Champion plug since they're mostly broken now, and according to the parts store the RC12YCs (IIRC) are mostly used these days for lawnmowers so they only sell them on individual cards.

It also tended to "run on" but since it's never been tuned there might be 10 other things causing that.
 
I re-lubed the plugs with anti-seize and got it back together.

You can't imagine how much fun it is to do a valve adjustment with a fuzzy head. I think I did it 3x yesterday. Once writing down how many 1/4 turns on each. That worked until I realized I wasn't adjusting the right valves. Then I tried putting a piece of tape on each one as I went. Yeah guess what, same deal. That helped me keep from de-adjusting one that I'd adjusted before but I still ended up adjusting the wrong one and had to start over again

In the end I started to first find the valve and adjust it, then leave the ratchet hanging and go check that that I had adjusted the right valve. Then I would check that off the list, grab the sharpie, get my ratchet, and mark the adjuster.

With that technique, I ended up with one valve with neither a mark on the adjuster or a check on the list. How I did that I don't know but I often amaze myself with feats of stupidity. I was really glad it wasn't one unmarked adjuster and a different one not checked off the list though.

I rolled it around one more time to check that one. Of course it was OK. I probably was good to go the first time. I'm still not sure I'm good to go this time. I'll find out right after I take a nap.

FWIW I put a full turn of preload on all of them this time and I hope they are as happy as I am because it sure was nice to not run out of threads on any adjuster.
 
Still no nap but I must have gotten the adjustments right enough because it started and didn't miss - so nothing got bent LOL.

I just had the cell phone with me and the video I took sounds nothing like the car. From under the hood it seems to be echoing or something. I'm pretty confident the engine runs quiet once it pumps everything up but videos say otherwise. It's a cheap phone that cost 100% more than I wanted to pay for it in the first place, so ...

I think the odd noises I hear from time to time are coming from underneath the car. Of course the cell phone didn't pick any of that up. Pushing in the clutch doesn't cause it or solve it so it doesn't seem related to that. I think it's mostly junk exhaust parts, pending eventual replacement. Another noise issue is likely related to the lack of interior insulation. Did I mention inside the car sounds like you're in an echo chamber? I was in the car the other day with the doors shut and windows up, said something out loud and it was like I was inside a drum. So yeah, that could be part of it too.

I also wonder if the fuel pump is making a racket. It makes good pressure and my oil level isn't going up so if there's anything wrong there it's strictly noise right right now. Yes it was new. The alternator is not, so I might swap that for another one and see if that helps with noise.

I raised the front bowl level and that made a good difference. I started with the timing at 15, then added timing and saw the idle speed increase, adjusted the idle, added timing, etc. I stopped that stuff at 26*, and set it back to 15. It might want 26* or more, but you're going to have a hard time convincing me it's *right*. So there's more to do there.

Also, with timing set at 15 and temps at or about 190*, when I turned it off there was no run on this time. It does seem to idle faster as time goes on for some reason. I've seen that before but don't remember ever solving it. Something up with the carb maybe? I lubed the distributor pivots and weights and all that.

We were just close enough to FL to get drowned with rain the past 3 days so no drive time this time. I did back it up a bit just to see if I had screwed up the shifter adjustment and it works better than before so I'm not messing with it any more.
 
Blackout is better

front-10-01-24.jpg
The little bit of blue visible is from holes stamped in toward the engine bay. When I painted, I painted the outside black first, then masked and painted the inside. Obviously I didn't notice that left the stamped bits of the rad support showing blue. Might touch that up with a brush on at least the passenger side. I'm unsure if I can get to it on the driver's side without taking out the battery and maybe the tray.

Also, yes the passenger side sits higher than the driver's side. Measuring at the front to the bottom edge of the fender, and from both sides at the same spot of the "Commando V8" badge says there's 1/2" difference. It seems like if anything I would want the driver's side higher to pre-load the passenger side rear, and a little bit higher translates into a little more camber, and this car could use that (not offset bushings).

Having trouble with both the gas and temp gauge now. Grounded wires on both, both went to full scale high. The temp sender is new, need to check the ohms on that. I checked that it is grounded. The cluster is grounded with a dedicated wire. I sure didn't take the wire off the back of the cluster, and I don't see any disconnected ring connectors under the dash, so it's reasonable to say yeah it's grounded as good as it can be. I would have to take the column back down to check that anyway, so there is no rush.
 

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