My 71 Duster work in progress

[Dr.Jass]

Yeah I know the way with Smith Brothers now. Free shipping on on-line orders but you have to put a cc number on the form and email it to them. Sure I will.

They've got a FAX number too. I should've sent a FAX and called to be sure they got it. Then I could've jumped up and down over the free shipping.

They charge for shipping anyway. Again, ax me how I know. They f__ked me eight ways from Sunday on my first, only, and last transaction with them. I'll call Manton next time.

And is there a good way to draw off about 4 oz of oil from the rear end so I can fit a bottle of additive in it?

A cheap suction gun runs about $10. Pull the gear oil out, add your friction modifier, and refill from the same gun. Otherwise, you can piss off B-body-Babe by using her turkey baster. I don't want to hear about your lousy Thanksgiving, though.

I thought of trying to lift the rear end higher than the front but I don't want a lot of hassle that's going to turn into little if any gain.

Lifting the rear would work, but you'd have to get it relatively high to actually prevent any loss. There's gear oil in the tailshaft housing too. Raising the rear might help slow it, but the best bet is probably just to work quickly... or get more use out of that new $10 suction gun--the baster's not big enough for this job.

 

[b-body-bob]

I'll call Manton next time.

There is a place "Trend" that was recommended too but all their material was so far out of date I figured the screwing would be about equal compared to Smith Bros.
Trend Performance - High Performance Pushrods, Wristpin, and Valve Train components

A cheap suction gun runs about $10. Pull the gear oil out, add your friction modifier, and refill from the same gun. Otherwise, you can piss off B-body-Babe by using her turkey baster. I don't want to hear about your lousy Thanksgiving, though.

I've got a turkey baster out there for some reason but it's doubtful that is going to get far enough into the rear end fill hole to draw anything out.

I've got a pump adapter to fill from a bottle, was kind of wondering if I would be able to turn that thing around and draw it out and back into the bottle.

The transmission has a drain plug so I can just drain that back into the partial jug I have left from the fill.

I think you hit on something though, this seems like it would be perfect for the job. Holds 7 ozs.
https://www.harborfreight.com/lubricant-suction-gun-59513.html

the best bet is probably just to work quickly

Trying to hurry the install is guaranteed to cause more of a mess than not hurrying will. The first thing I would do is drop the new switch in the drain pan.

 

[Dr.Jass]

I've got a turkey baster out there for some reason but it's doubtful that is going to get far enough into the rear end fill hole to draw anything out.

It only has to go in about an inch, on a bit of a downward angle. You could also put a piece of scrap hose on the end of it.

I think you hit on something though, this seems like it would be perfect for the job. Holds 7 ozs.
https://www.harborfreight.com/lubricant-suction-gun-59513.html

I sell the Performance Tool W54220, which is a metal one that holds 16oz. It's about $14 out the door for Joe Off the Street. It's handier than you might think.

One more thing regarding the pushrod discussion: My next engine will hopefully be ball-ball pushrods. I bought a couple of sets of these awhile back but haven't assembled anything since:

 

[b-body-bob]

Performance Tool W54220

The nearest part store to me has that too. Will pick one up and get the greasy mess of a job done.

 

[b-body-bob]

Couldn't use the suction gun to pull fluid out of the transmission because the gears were in the way of getting the hose into the fluid so I drained a pint out the drain plug. Not a drop came out of the backup light switch when I removed it. I used the suction gun to refill it.

I could've used it on the rear end but found the gear oil there was way low. I checked it but I did it with the rear end sitting outside the car so it wasn't necessarily positioned like it is in the car. Not a good idea. Be sure to check it again after it's installed in the future.

The bumper valence and grille are all back on the car. All I'm waiting on now are the pushrods.

 

[b-body-bob]

BTW that suction gun was so stuck I had to use my compressor to push the handle out. It has a slot in the canister that looks like it locks - similar to a grease gun - but nope it was just stuck.

Also - look at the box, it says "Lifetime Warranty", but the paper inside says it's 1 year only. Bait and switch.

 

[Dr.Jass]

BTW that suction gun was so stuck I had to use my compressor to push the handle out. It has a slot in the canister that looks like it locks - similar to a grease gun - but nope it was just stuck.

Didn't know it was stuck.

Also - look at the box, it says "Lifetime Warranty", but the paper inside says it's 1 year only. Bait and switch.

If it says "Lifetime Warranty" on the box, then it's lifetime warranty. You bought it under that pretense, and you can't be expected to open the box in the store (depending on the item, that might get a fella arrested) and look for disclaimers to what's on the box. If you have the box, keep it.

Here's the deal with Performance Tool (Wilmar) stuff. They're gonna warranty it regardless. That thing cost 'em 62 cents to make and they can warranty 30 of 'em before it starts to hurt them. That's been my experience selling their hand tools. Suprisingly, I've warrantied very little of it since 2006 when I started selling it. I've never personally broken any of it, but the stuff I have warrantied for customers has always been "no questions asked"--they just give me replacement credit. I can't imagine it's any different through any other supplier, especially a big chain store like O'Reilly.

 

[b-body-bob]

Didn't know it was stuck.

Mine was. The hardest part of popping the handle out with air pressure was remembering to aim the handle toward the floor in case it decided to pop completely out.

If it says "Lifetime Warranty" on the box, then it's lifetime warranty

Maybe I should've put a smiley face after my post. I might use it 2 or 3 times before it belongs to someone else and I'm sure it will still be working then.

 

[b-body-bob]

When did it become common to call these "exhaust spouts"?


I mean, I see why, but they used to just be "exhaust tips"?

I ordered a couple from the local NAPA that were supposed to be here yesterday and it doesn't look like they're going to be here today either. Another lying website. The straight pipes are cut too short and I get a nasty residue on the bumper that I'm sure is about the next best thing to battery acid.

Despite Smith Bros website claiming fast manufacture and shipping, I won't have pushrods until next week. So I basically spent a month trying to order a little bit longer set.

I really hoped those would be here before the weekend so I could do some squeelies before I go under the ray gun starting Tuesday through the end of November. I've been told it sort of sucks the energy right out of you, which could be a disaster for a lazy person like me because I don't have that much to spare.

 

[Dr.Jass]

When did it become common to call these "exhaust spouts"?
View attachment 28305

I mean, I see why, but they used to just be "exhaust tips"?

Downspouts and turndowns, mostly the latter, are what I most often hear them called. "Tips" sorta indicate chrome extensions, at least to me. I have a hard time believing they didn't have those on hand, unless you were having 'em shipped or specifically wanted the AP parts. The Walker number for the 2½"one shown is 41094, and the Nickson number is 17605. Even my little podunk store keeps a pair of the less-expensive Nicksons on the shelf. They're what I've put on Agnes.

Despite Smith Bros website claiming fast manufacture and shipping, I won't have pushrods until next week. So I basically spent a month trying to order a little bit longer set.

Have you verbally verified with anyone at Smith Bros that they're even aware of your order? They literally don't check their web orders. You get your confirmation and all that good stuff, all appears well, then you call them ten business days later and they're surprised by the order. After a couple more weeks you'll receive a bill for quite a bit more money than the website quoted. I looked recently and they still show the same pricing on the site that they did when I dealt with 'em years ago. This is why I urged you to call them, because if you do ever get your order it'll be more expensive than you expected based on long-outdated website pricing. You were around when I endured their nonsense a few years back: +$50 on the pushrods, +$18 on the adjusters. Ordered July 3rd, shipped July 19th after sending two "where's my stuff?" e-mails--one never answered--and finally making a phone call.

Their parts are beautiful but their customer service is non-existent if your last name's not Schumacher or Force.

 

[b-body-bob]

I have a hard time believing they didn't have those on hand

Autozone had nothing. Advance had exactly one. NAPA had none on hand but they order from a local warehouse so things should show up the next day.

Have you verbally verified with anyone at Smith Bros that they're even aware of your order

Smith Bros took 3 days to make them and ship. Now UPS has the package but they decided to send it on the scenic route I guess. Earlier this week it was going to be here today, today it's going to be here Monday.

it'll be more expensive than you expected based on long-outdated website pricing

I knew what the price was because I called the order in, but that doesn't mean it wasn't shocking. That was why I tried four times with oepushrods before giving up. I wish those guys would just be honest and say they don't take orders from Joe Blow off the street because they sure aren't set up to do it.

 

[b-body-bob]

The turndowns showed up today too late to pickup so I will have them tomorrow.

I checked all the lights and now that I've got the grille and lights in place it's all grounded and working. I noticed the backup lights don't work but I can hold the shifter forward and it will light up. So I started adjusting. I put 4 turns CW on the reverse rod (making it shorter should make it pull the lever farther back) and it's not really any different from when I started. The alignment rod still fits through the body of the shifter and all. Precision!

 

[Dr.Jass]

Autozone had nothing. Advance had exactly one. NAPA had none on hand but they order from a local warehouse so things should show up the next day.

Kooky. Every parts store around here carries a couple of each size from 2" to 2-1/2".

Smith Bros took 3 days to make them and ship. Now UPS has the package but they decided to send it on the scenic route I guess. Earlier this week it was going to be here today, today it's going to be here Monday.

I knew what the price was because I called the order in, but that doesn't mean it wasn't shocking.

OK, I thought you ordered them online.

...I tried four times with oepushrods before giving up. I wish those guys would just be honest and say they don't take orders from Joe Blow off the street because they sure aren't set up to do it.

I've never attempted to order from them, I've only heard of others doing so with good results in terms of the pushrods. Can't say I've seen anything else about dealing with them, though.

I checked all the lights and now that I've got the grille and lights in place it's all grounded and working. I noticed the backup lights don't work but I can hold the shifter forward and it will light up. So I started adjusting. I put 4 turns CW on the reverse rod (making it shorter should make it pull the lever farther back) and it's not really any different from when I started. The alignment rod still fits through the body of the shifter and all. Precision!

It sounds like your rods or levers are worn... four turns?! Yikes.

I'm wondering if your backup lamp switch issue isn't gasket related, i.e. one was still stuck to the case, or an extry-thick or double gasket got installed on the switch. It's not like there's an adjustment for that setup. The reverse lever inside the transmission hits the switch ball directly. I can't imagine that lever wearing considering its beef.

 

[b-body-bob]

Kooky. Every parts store around here carries a couple of each size from 2" to 2-1/2".

This place seemed to have one of everything and the counter guy said everything's on the shelf. He was wishing everyone a blessed day so I know he wouldn't lie to me.

I've only heard of others doing so with good results in terms of the pushrods.

They're definitely set up to out a good product, but not to take orders from individuals. They probably make parts for all the cam companies and they communicate via purchase orders. The phone always rings forever long and it's never the office guy that picks it up, so it's kind of a bummer to call and interrupt some guy who was running a machine.

It sounds like your rods or levers are worn... four turns?! Yikes.

Yeah four turns had me thinking whoa. I had 3 turns, then tried 2 turns with the rod in and I couldn't get the lever back on, turned it back 1 turn and it went on. The levers and rods look OK and I'm using the right clips/washers not cotter pins and hardware store washers. The transmission "whack"s solid when it goes in reverse, as it should.

As for it taking four turns and still being in range of the adjustment, I'm suspicious of the shifter - maybe the adjusting holes are wallowed out or something. It does seem to go into reverse easier now, so hooray for that.

I'm wondering if your backup lamp switch issue isn't gasket related, i.e. one was still stuck to the case, or an extry-thick or double gasket got installed on the switch. It's not like there's an adjustment for that setup. The reverse lever inside the transmission hits the switch ball directly. I can't imagine that lever wearing considering its beef.

The gasket came off with the old switch - I remember looking at the hole in the case. I ordered the exact part number you posted, and that switch had a thin metal gasket on it, so that all seems OK. Two things come to mind - 1. Chinese parts, and 2. maybe I can put a little more turn on it to make up the difference. It's right there, almost but not quite.

 

[Dr.Jass]

This place seemed to have one of everything and the counter guy said everything's on the shelf. He was wishing everyone a blessed day so I know he wouldn't lie to me.

One wonders if those people realize how annoying they can be. He sounds like the manager I replaced at two different stores (same guy): It it's not on the shelf or in the computer by application, it doesn't exist. I guess that's why my current store's sales increased by $120,000 in my first full year there.

Yeah four turns had me thinking whoa. I had 3 turns, then tried 2 turns with the rod in and I couldn't get the lever back on, turned it back 1 turn and it went on. The levers and rods look OK and I'm using the right clips/washers not cotter pins and hardware store washers. The transmission "whack"s solid when it goes in reverse, as it should.

As for it taking four turns and still being in range of the adjustment, I'm suspicious of the shifter - maybe the adjusting holes are wallowed out or something. It does seem to go into reverse easier now, so hooray for that.

Are the adjusters and rods snug in the shifter and lever holes? The alignment tool needs to be the right size, too--it shouldn't be loose a'tall. I use an M6 x 60mm bolt, which is literally perfect. I might be able to get away with one turn in either direction, but two is out of the question.

Of course, I was adjusting the shifter at work, where we have bolts up the wazoo so finding perfection was easy enough. Working in a professional shop that's attached to a parts store is a pretty glorious experience. Everyone should have it at least once, so they hate their home arrangement even more.

The gasket came off with the old switch - I remember looking at the hole in the case. I ordered the exact part number you posted, and that switch had a thin metal gasket on it, so that all seems OK. Two things come to mind - 1. Chinese parts, and 2. maybe I can put a little more turn on it to make up the difference. It's right there, almost but not quite.

Unfortunately, it may well be Option 1. A few years ago, the LS201 was made in North America, while the LS201T (formerly Tru-Tech, now "T-Series") was the overseas part. They discontinued the T-Series version and, being a low-priority part (it was last used in the early '90s by my guesstimates), just shifted that part into the premium box. It works splendiferiously on Agnes, but I probably don't need to mention Asian quality control either.

If further tweaking doesn't get it, I'd try the old switch if it's not destroyed. I'd also return the LS201 as defective and ask for a replacement or refund. You could also get silly and buy an NOS one: AMS Obsolete looks to have a couple of hundred available for $30 each on the 'Bay. Technically, that one's only correct for 1962-'70, but it's functionally the same and later superseded to the '71-up number, which had a shorter hex.

 

[b-body-bob]

One wonders if those people realize how annoying they can be. He sounds like the manager I replaced at two different stores (same guy): It it's not on the shelf or in the computer by application, it doesn't exist. I guess that's why my current store's sales increased by $120,000 in my first full year there.

The annoying part is him assuming I even want to have a blessed day. Hmpf.

Are the adjusters and rods snug in the shifter and lever holes? The alignment tool needs to be the right size, too--it shouldn't be loose a'tall. I use an M6 x 60mm bolt, which is literally perfect. I might be able to get away with one turn in either direction, but two is out of the question.

Everything seems right. I use a piece of 1/4" round stock.

Unfortunately, it may well be Option 1. A few years ago, the LS201 was made in North America, while the LS201T (formerly Tru-Tech, now "T-Series") was the overseas part. They discontinued the T-Series version and, being a low-priority part (it was last used in the early '90s by my guesstimates), just shifted that part into the premium box. It works splendiferiously on Agnes, but I probably don't need to mention Asian quality control either.

I tried tightening it, no go. It's almost like I need a special socket - 15/16" seems too loose, 7/8 is too small. Either way it wasn't turning any further.

If further tweaking doesn't get it, I'd try the old switch if it's not destroyed. I'd also return the LS201 as defective and ask for a replacement or refund. You could also get silly and buy an NOS one: AMS Obsolete looks to have a couple of hundred available for $30 each on the 'Bay. Technically, that one's only correct for 1962-'70, but it's functionally the same and later superseded to the '71-up number, which had a shorter hex.

Yes, the shorter hex seems to be what I have now.

I remember at one point the old switch wasn't lighting the backups either. I remember not having it far enough in reverse, so I probably never took my hand off the shifter when I figured that out.

It's fine enough as long as it's not leaking.

Also


They might be sticking out too far but there's no worry about exhaust reside on the bumper now.

Pushrods will be here tomorrow. Tonight I'm "helping" my nephew install a new A/C unit in my kid's house.

 

[Dr.Jass]

The annoying part is him assuming I even want to have a blessed day. Hmpf.

It seems most of my blessings come well-disguised, so I'm too angry to realize I'm having a blessed day until well after the fact.

They might be sticking out too far but there's no worry about exhaust reside on the bumper now.

My tips don't even reach the rear bumper, yet despite the exhaust vomiting black smoke and soot like a coal-fired freighter, my bumper remains clean. It's the magic of turndowns, Bob.

Tonight I'm "helping" my nephew install a new A/C unit in my kid's house.

Does this you drink beer whilst pointing out how they're doing it all wrong?

 

[b-body-bob]

It seems most of my blessings come well-disguised, so I'm too angry to realize I'm having a blessed day until well after the fact.

Indeed. I don't need people praying for me either. Please just say "I hope you get better" and drop it.

Does this you drink beer whilst pointing out how they're doing it all wrong?

I did drink one beer - I'm a diabetic so that's my limit - and there's no way I'm telling him what's wrong but yeah I'm not all that comfortable with it. We came up against a situation where the new a-coil low pressure side isn't the same size as our line set. They don't sell little pieces of that, and a line set costs > $300 these days. We're hoping his hording habit will provide what we need. We'll find out today.

Also - apparently for years and years the line set was on the left side and the furnace vent is on the right side. This a-coil has the line set connections on the right side, so they are in the way of the furnace vent. He got to rant about that a little bit. I'm unsure how we're going to rig it up to get around that, but we've got a couple of months to figure it out.

 

[RUSTY Cuda]

Can you get to the back, if so just make the connections there?
Are you using quick connects (charged lines) if not just put one size in the other & silver braze it in?

 

[b-body-bob]

Can you get to the back, if so just make the connections there?

I don't think there were any connections on the other side, and that would make the line set at least 2-3' too short.

Are you using quick connects (charged lines) if not just put one size in the other & silver braze it in?

Not charged lines. The line set fit inside a 7/8" on the old A coil. Now it's the same exact size as the fitting on the new A coil. So what we need is a sleeve to braze over both ends, or one that fits inside both ends.

The old A coil had 7/8 lines so we can't cut a piece out of that to use either.

Realize that I know nearly zero about HVAC so that may or may not be correct or even make sense LOL.

He's already moved the A-coil inside the old box because the one it came with is a completely different size and we could end up spending a whole day making a transition. As it is we're going to have to do something to adapt the door - probably make blanks to screw then tape to the existing holes and make new holes to fit.

As far as I'm concerned this is a change to force homeowners to replace the furnace too.