My 71 Duster work in progress

heres a tip on the 4ways..if you suddenly find them not working again fiddle with the turn signal, sometimes it can sit "just" off and cause one to go out...i chased this on my 69 when i was trying to do my drivers test.....i had to hold the stalk "just" right for the 4ways to work...turn signals all worked just fine all the time tho..its the semi small connection points in the column switch plate
 
b-body-bob said:
Yeah the grille came with the turn signal ground wires.
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I assumed they were present, I just didn't know where you attached the terminal end.

b-body-bob said:
The double-pumper die hards will argue otherwise, but the car will run better with the smaller vacuum secondary carb on it.
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I'll argue otherwise, assuming you've got with-driver starting-line weight under 3,200lb, an 8" converter, and a 5-series gear. However, since your car meets none of those requirements, the 3310 should run better assuming good condition and a decent tune. A ThermoQuad would run even better.
 
Tried the 4-ways again last night. Looking at them, the LF wasn't flashing, then all at once it was. I looked at the wiring diagram and it seems all the magic happens in the turn signal switch so there's probably nothing I can fix short of replacing the switch. Since they flash and it all gets routed to the bulbs in the switch, I'm presuming the flasher is not at fault. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace them.

Maybe I should get to the switch and spray it down with contact cleaner then look for pinched or otherwise fouled up wires?

I just didn't know where you attached the terminal end
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At the closest possible place on the rad support.
 
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69.5CUDA said:
heres a tip on the 4ways..if you suddenly find them not working again fiddle with the turn signal, sometimes it can sit "just" off and cause one to go out...i chased this on my 69 when i was trying to do my drivers test.....i had to hold the stalk "just" right for the 4ways to work...turn signals all worked just fine all the time tho..its the semi small connection points in the column switch plate
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That's probably what I'll end up doing too at least until I decide to remove the steering wheel again but that's pretty low on my priority list. If I need the 4-ways I know how to make sure they're all flashing now.
 
the switch itself is likely not at fault persay, it likely needs cleaned and "tweaked"..its just a handfull of contacts and 2 spring wires...the spring wire likely need to be bent a little closer to the contact....or the whole unit is loose and thus not centering, which is useualy semi obvious now that you know what your looking for
 
b-body-bob said:
It came with two
View attachment 23065View attachment 23066

And also
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But I'd have to say I'm not too interested in all that.
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The DP4B is a nice piece, not that I'd suggest ruffling any feathers underhood at the moment... but man, that 6050S is about as perfect a carb as you could ask for, jetting-wise. If I didn't have the Six Pack setup for my Challenger, it would almost certainly start life with a factory 340 intake and a '72-'73 340 ThermoQuad. Until you make major changes in displacement or top-end RPM, the factory carburetor's jetting will be very close, assuming the carb can move enough air at WOT (which a TQ can in most cases). If the Holley gives you issues the TQ is well worth a shot.
 
The 3310 has a broken throttle spring. Not sure if I need it or not, but it's there for a reason so the answer is probably yes I need it.
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There are two ways to fix it, either by replacing the base plate for about $150 or installing a throttle shaft service kit for about $50. The problem with the service kit is that I only find one for 3310 on Holley's site and it has a Ford kickdown lever so I am unsure if that will work but they may be the same so I am trying to figure it out.

Also, on the baseplate, there is one listed for an O-3310/80508 then one for
Carburetor Base Plate Assembly for Holley 4160 Series; 750 CFM Replacment component for 3310-1; 3310-2; 3310-3; 3310-4. I do not understand why there would be two parts with two different prices.

Holley kit w/ Ford lever:
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3310 lever:
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Other than that a good cleaning should get this thing going. It's a good winter project.
 

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There appears to be some extra linkage behind the main throttle arm on the 112-117. I assume that's probably choke or idle-stop related to the original Chevrolet application for the 3310. Pro tip: The throttle bore sizes are the same from 650-800CFM. The super-common 1850 (600CFM) is too small. For those reading along in silence (lurkers), no you cannot use a mechanical-secondary baseplate.

I tried looking on eBay and was surprised that there were not two thousand aftermarket options (Proform, QFT, etc.) available for considerably less than the Holley part. When I needed a new base last year, I found them so inexpensively I bought two--one for the 9381 on the car, and another to reassemble the 4780 from which I'd robbed one. They were about half the cost of the 4160 units I'm finding and had Holley casting numbers (genuine?). I believe they were AED but can't swear to it. Somewhere on this board is a review of them; the quality was good. Proform #67269 was the best deal I could find, albeit I did not get nearly as in-depth as I did when I needed one. The one linked was the lowest price; you may be able to find a better-priced AED or QuickFuel option with more digging.

Now for the opinion for which you didn't ax: Were it my carb, I'd spend the extra for the new baseplate. Right off the bat, everything is new. No shaft-bore or linkage/pivot wear, etc. Changing/servicing the throttle shaft isn't a lot of fun. The old throttle-plate screws must be ground to be removed and i assume you've no way to stake the new screws as original. That means threadlocker and prayer. Also the spring can be frustrating since it's preloaded--it doesn't just slip on there. The throttle plates do not automagically align to the bores; it takes some futzing. I like to be cheap wherever possible, but this is one of those "how long do you want to f__k around, and how mad do you want to get to save $70 and still have any other existing issues?" situations. It's your time and your wallet; your results may vary.
 
Dr.Jass said:
. I like to be cheap wherever possible, but this is one of those "how long do you want to f__k around, and how mad do you want to get to save $70 and still have any other existing is
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I'm trying not to fall into that trap myself. Also trying to be sure I get the right thing. I don't need more parts that don't fit.

That extra linkage on 112-117 might be the Ford kick down linkage mentioned on that one kit, but I haven't tried to figure that out yet. I don't want a part with extra stuff, that usually ends with me taking a hacksaw to stuff when I realize it's in the way or something.
 
I wired up the stereo this weekend - Pioneer Super Tuner IIID with 6x9 Sony Xplod speakers. It's loud and sounds OK, but no digital interface so it's radio or CDs only.

I put in a full set of rear belts from SeatBeltPlanet.com and did a lot of small things while I had the seats out. I was wrapping things up and decided to try the turn signals, and the left dash bulb wassn't working. I had almost talked myself into crawling under the dash to try to pop the bulb out, then I noticed the right side was missing beats. I'll eventually pull the steering wheel off to replace the switch. Maybe.
 
Well, it sounds pretty good at one end. 😁

b-body-bob said:
I wired up the stereo this weekend - Pioneer Super Tuner IIID with 6x9 Sony Xplod speakers. It's loud and sounds OK, but no digital interface so it's radio or CDs only.
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You could always run an FM modulator to your chosen device. You'll lose some sound quality due to FM's lower S:N ratio and channel separation, but if you don't mind it doesn't matter.
 
I've got one of those gadgets that I used in my truck. It worked OK until someone would touch the wrong button, then I couldn't see the LCD display on it to get it going again. It was a real hassle that way.

For some reason even though it was literally right next to the radio, every now and again it wouldn't pick it up and I'd try to adjust it and would mess things up.. IIRC that was when I'd go into an area where there was an actual radio station with a strong signal at the frequency the gadget was set on at the time.

I'd forgotten about it but know exactly where it is so I'll toss it and an SD card in the car just in case.

That fan belt is so short I have to walk it on and off the pulley, so it needs replaced even if it was silent.
 
Back in the halcyon days of car audio--the '80s--those modulators didn't have transmitters. They were physically connected inline with the antenna. I have a couple of old Alpine CD changer controllers wired as such. Another option to consider--one I also have here but have never actually tried--is a cassette-shaped Bluetooth receiver that just slides in like a tape. No transmitter/frequency woes; it uses the tape head. Mine has a small antenna/switch on a pigtail that hangs out of the tape slot. That pigtail has no place to fit in my home cassette deck (yes, I still have one) and I don't have a wired car deck in which to test it, so it's sat untried since I bought it.
 
the only cassette deck I own is in the house and hasn't been used for decades

This super tuner is one where the whole face plate drops down to access the CD changer. Really user friendly. I'm pretty sure the face plate comes off as a theft deterrent.
 
i had one of those antenna inlines and those of all of them worked best, however the more modern ones do seem to work better than some of the older units the biggest trick is to go thru your local radio stations in advance and find the widest gap you can and then set your unit for that gap.....me running from here to seattle i have to switch gaps 5 times

at this point if you can find a deck with ANY kind of input be it on the rear or a input in the face thats the better way to do it....short of a truely modern deck with BT built in....i know ive got stacks of old 80/90s units alot of which have inputs
 
b-body-bob said:
the only cassette deck I own is in the house and hasn't been used for decades
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Yeah, I forgot you said it was a CD deck. I'm so old I automatically assimilate "Super Tuner III" to cassette decks, since that's what most of those were. Also, I still actually use tapes, so there's that.

Quite a few of my '88-'91 Alpines have input RCAs. Technically, they're not AUX jacks--they're designed to be daisy-chained with other Alpine units*--but hit that "audio interrupt" wire with 12V+ and the RCAs go active. The tape or CD pauses in place, or the radio mutes. My Nakamichi CD player has two sets of RCA AUX inputs plus CD changer controls, the inputs for which can be used as a third.

* I actually have two Alpines I plan to daisy-chain in my Challenger: A 7620E cassette deck/changer control and a 5903 standalone CD player (no tuner). Also in the chain is a 6-disc changer that will read MP3s from DVDs (DHA-S690), which gives me ~28GB of compressed-music storage atop the CD/tape/radio functions.
 
69.5CUDA said:
i had one of those antenna inlines and those of all of them worked best, however the more modern ones do seem to work better than some of the older units the biggest trick is to go thru your local radio stations in advance and find the widest gap you can and then set your unit for that gap.....me running from here to seattle i have to switch gaps 5 times

at this point if you can find a deck with ANY kind of input be it on the rear or a input in the face thats the better way to do it....short of a truely modern deck with BT built in....i know ive got stacks of old 80/90s units alot of which have inputs
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I just looked at the installation manual - there are no inputs on it. The stupid thing did come with a remote control, because you need that when you're listening to music in your car.
 
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