Jester's Progress...

Also soldered a wire behind the ballast, after hollowing out the insides. Again, this is not my pic, will update it with my pic soon. No need for ballast resistor with HEI module.

Using an MSD Blaster II coil for now, which is okay with no ballast resistor. Not sure I want to use an HEI coil, which would work better, apparently.
 

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Better make a spare to keep with you. Those HEI modules fail faster than GM fuel pumps and hub assemblies.
 
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I carry a spare Mopar ecu and ballast, both of which plug right in, in a pinch.

HEI has given me zero trouble in my GM's so far. Cannot say the same for Chrysler ECU's and ballast resistors.

I may fab up an HEI module and Coil bracket. Supposed to give a stronger spark as well.
 
I have been driving mopars most of my life. I have never changed a mopar ecu or ballast resistor. I have change lots of failed HEI moduels. The HEI model has little to do with the spark energy. Thats all in the HEI coil. The HEI stuff needs 14.7 v to work properly and is not a fan of high RPM at all. Although high rpm is not a concern for you with the slant six. There is a performance HEI module avaliable though. I'm not sure exactly what it does to be high preference thoigh. Higher RPM capabilities maybe? Perhaps Jass remembers.
 
I installed an MSD module and coil (remote) in my Trans Am and it was like a different car afterward. It would actually pull above five grand. Of course, that was after a few OE modules failed. I changed more ignition modules in that one car than in all my Mopars combined, but in fairness only 55 or 60 of the Mopars actually ran (the rest were parts cars). I've never had a factory ECU fail, nor a ballast resistor. I've also run engines well over 7 grand on stock Mopar parts, something absolutely unfathomable with an HEI.

The OE HEI system falls off in performance above 4,000RPM (really falling apart around 4,800) due to its fixed dwell and voltage. Two things affect spark intensity: voltage input and dwell. That's why HEI is so voltage-dependent: it's got fixed dwell and the resistance to the coil is internal to the module (it has a "ballast resistor" so to speak). Unlike GM, Chrysler understood how ignition actually works and designed their system to perform--something GM cared nothing about in the smog era when HEI debuted. In the Chrysler system, the ballast resistor is a variable voltage controller. Like the GM system, the Mopar uses a fixed dwell setting. However, unlike the bargain-basement halfwits at the General, Chrysler realized that if they varied the voltage with RPM, the spark intensity could actually increase with RPM. As RPM increases, the ballast resistor has less cooling time betwixt spark events. As it gets hotter, its resistance decreases. As its resistance decreases, more voltage makes it through to the coil. Same dwell interval x greater voltage = more spark energy. End of statement.
It was a genius idea with points that continued to be brilliant with a reluctor.
Now, compare the sizes of the two modules. The Chrysler one is enormous compared to the HEI. Why? Reliability. Remember, Chrysler offered a 5-year/50,000-mile warranty starting back in '63. The less they had to honor it, the more profitable they'd be. In the case of the module's size it's all about cooling, particularly with the enormous, extremely robust TO-3 case transistor that controls the dwell. The Chrysler system has greater dwell time, which means more heat through that transistor. That big transistor dissipates it well into the huge heatsink to which its bolted. The case bolts to the firewall for further heat transfer (and later, grounding). Cooler electronics simply last longer. The TO-3 wasn't chosen because it was the only thing available; it was simply the most proven, most reliable style of transistor available. They're still available and still used in high-power-demand situations where space is not a concern.

Here's the fun bit: The "HEI makes more power" pipe dream comes from the same people that buy Edelbrock Performer intakes for their 340 and claim it makes more power, even though factory 360 EGR intakes are easily proven better on the dyno. If nothing else changes, your "butt dyno" will feel a mild increase in lower-range power in either case. In the case of the Edelbrock, it's due to smaller ports than OE providing greater port velocity at low speed (and hence, falling on its face up high). In the case of HEI, it's due to the fact that you've got all the spark power you're ever gonna get while tooling around at cruise. The reality of it is that timing is far more important at lower cylinder pressures. 35kV is more than enough to light the fire. These are the same dunderheads running their engine using the base timing on the engine decal--a number the engineers determined fully expecting you and five of your closest homies to drive up Pike's Peak on shit fuel whilst pulling a 3-ton Airstream. The OE 340/4-speed timing decal for 1969 says 0° (at TDC). With the same compression, base timing on Agnes is set at 22°BTDC. I have neither an Airstream nor five friends.

HEI on Mopars is an internet-era thing, and like so many other things on the internet it's nothing more than parroted stupidity begun by GM guys who bought a Chrysler product.

An HEI coil will not provide any more spark than your Blaster II. If you were using the original coil, it would be a different story. The Blaster II should last longer than the HEI unit, due to being oil-filled and hence staying cooler. It's also less voltage-sensitive than an e-coil, which probably works to your advantage since I doubt you're getting a rock-solid 14.7V from your alternator.

Realistically, Jester, in your case the system you have will probably be fine for years. You have a low-performance engine that couldn't hit five grand without nitrous, that rarely sees even 3,000RPM. If you were to swap in a mildly-hotted V8, though, your new ignition system would become both a liability and a handicap. As someone who spent years with both ignition systems--remember, I ran Pontiacs--the Chrysler has proven itself infinitely more reliable from mild to wild.

For me, the argument is purely academic. Agnes will be my only vehicle with a distributor in the foreseeable future; both the Challenger and Imperial will have fully-programmable distributorless ignition. Hell, I might even swap Agnes if she sticks around long enough.

Before anyone asks, Agnes currently has a Pertronix Ignitor III purely for stealth reasons. It has an onboard rev limiter so there's no external module of any sort, nor any telling new holes in the firewall. To the casual observer it looks like I'm still running points. We'll find out together how it all pans out in the long run, but based on my experience Ignitors are, if nothing else, extremely reliable.
 
those pertronix units are nice...and yeah the internt slathing of the hei had me installing them on a few for others with NOTHING but complaints and fast fails....however...i have killed many balasts and ecus on mopars..to the point i dont trust them either, and would rather have points over either....but more often than not just drop an msd unit in place and forget about all the BS
 
Thanks for the info, Jass.

I'm just happy to be rid of the ballast resistor, and all the made in China Mopar ECU's, most of which have a dummy transistor mounted on top. Apparently, an HEI module and decent coil would benefit my grocery-getter slant, with hotter spark and a wider plug gap, to smooth out the idle and have decent low end drivability. I'll never see close to 5000 rpm with it. 😅

When I pulled all that rubber goop out of the ECU, it had a bit of sand in there, and a lot of moisture all over the circuit board. My guess is the moisture killed it.

Speaking of the MSD blaster II coil, I found a sticker on it that says "Made in CHI-NA". That doesn't make me feel great, plus it's mounted against the engine block, sucking up all the heat.

Would it benefit the coil at all, to move it to the inner fender or firewall?
 
Heat is definitely the killer of most ECU's, HEI's and Ford modules. Though I have not killed an HEI module, the Mopars and Fords all had similar deaths. Long drives in the Summer, the engine would cut out and I pulled off on the shoulder. Wait for engine to cool a bit, restart and travel another 10 miles or so, rinse and repeat. I actually got a Mustang home on a 3 hour drive, by pouring water on the ign module, which mounted to the distributor. Replaced module the next day and no more issues.

The mopars progressively got worse until they wouldn't start. Replaced ECU's and no more issues.

Have only had 2 ballasts go on me. both got wet and were missing bits of insulation on the back.
 
I installed an MSD module and coil (remote) in my Trans Am and it was like a different car afterward. It would actually pull above five grand. Of course, that was after a few OE modules failed. I changed more ignition modules in that one car than in all my Mopars combined, but in fairness only 55 or 60 of the Mopars actually ran (the rest were parts cars). I've never had a factory ECU fail, nor a ballast resistor. I've also run engines well over 7 grand on stock Mopar parts, something absolutely unfathomable with an HEI.

The OE HEI system falls off in performance above 4,000RPM (really falling apart around 4,800) due to its fixed dwell and voltage. Two things affect spark intensity: voltage input and dwell. That's why HEI is so voltage-dependent: it's got fixed dwell and the resistance to the coil is internal to the module (it has a "ballast resistor" so to speak). Unlike GM, Chrysler understood how ignition actually works and designed their system to perform--something GM cared nothing about in the smog era when HEI debuted. In the Chrysler system, the ballast resistor is a variable voltage controller. Like the GM system, the Mopar uses a fixed dwell setting. However, unlike the bargain-basement halfwits at the General, Chrysler realized that if they varied the voltage with RPM, the spark intensity could actually increase with RPM. As RPM increases, the ballast resistor has less cooling time betwixt spark events. As it gets hotter, its resistance decreases. As its resistance decreases, more voltage makes it through to the coil. Same dwell interval x greater voltage = more spark energy. End of statement.
It was a genius idea with points that continued to be brilliant with a reluctor.
Now, compare the sizes of the two modules. The Chrysler one is enormous compared to the HEI. Why? Reliability. Remember, Chrysler offered a 5-year/50,000-mile warranty starting back in '63. The less they had to honor it, the more profitable they'd be. In the case of the module's size it's all about cooling, particularly with the enormous, extremely robust TO-3 case transistor that controls the dwell. The Chrysler system has greater dwell time, which means more heat through that transistor. That big transistor dissipates it well into the huge heatsink to which its bolted. The case bolts to the firewall for further heat transfer (and later, grounding). Cooler electronics simply last longer. The TO-3 wasn't chosen because it was the only thing available; it was simply the most proven, most reliable style of transistor available. They're still available and still used in high-power-demand situations where space is not a concern.

Here's the fun bit: The "HEI makes more power" pipe dream comes from the same people that buy Edelbrock Performer intakes for their 340 and claim it makes more power, even though factory 360 EGR intakes are easily proven better on the dyno. If nothing else changes, your "butt dyno" will feel a mild increase in lower-range power in either case. In the case of the Edelbrock, it's due to smaller ports than OE providing greater port velocity at low speed (and hence, falling on its face up high). In the case of HEI, it's due to the fact that you've got all the spark power you're ever gonna get while tooling around at cruise. The reality of it is that timing is far more important at lower cylinder pressures. 35kV is more than enough to light the fire. These are the same dunderheads running their engine using the base timing on the engine decal--a number the engineers determined fully expecting you and five of your closest homies to drive up Pike's Peak on shit fuel whilst pulling a 3-ton Airstream. The OE 340/4-speed timing decal for 1969 says 0° (at TDC). With the same compression, base timing on Agnes is set at 22°BTDC. I have neither an Airstream nor five friends.

HEI on Mopars is an internet-era thing, and like so many other things on the internet it's nothing more than parroted stupidity begun by GM guys who bought a Chrysler product.

An HEI coil will not provide any more spark than your Blaster II. If you were using the original coil, it would be a different story. The Blaster II should last longer than the HEI unit, due to being oil-filled and hence staying cooler. It's also less voltage-sensitive than an e-coil, which probably works to your advantage since I doubt you're getting a rock-solid 14.7V from your alternator.

Realistically, Jester, in your case the system you have will probably be fine for years. You have a low-performance engine that couldn't hit five grand without nitrous, that rarely sees even 3,000RPM. If you were to swap in a mildly-hotted V8, though, your new ignition system would become both a liability and a handicap. As someone who spent years with both ignition systems--remember, I ran Pontiacs--the Chrysler has proven itself infinitely more reliable from mild to wild.

For me, the argument is purely academic. Agnes will be my only vehicle with a distributor in the foreseeable future; both the Challenger and Imperial will have fully-programmable distributorless ignition. Hell, I might even swap Agnes if she sticks around long enough.

Before anyone asks, Agnes currently has a Pertronix Ignitor III purely for stealth reasons. It has an onboard rev limiter so there's no external module of any sort, nor any telling new holes in the firewall. To the casual observer it looks like I'm still running points. We'll find out together how it all pans out in the long run, but based on my experience Ignitors are, if nothing else, extremely reliable.
Sometimes I look at your posts and think, "Jass seems like he needs a friend to talk to" :D

I've got an MSD 6AL in my road runner but the guy who had it before me had raced it for decades with just a mopar chrome box in it. I may swap the ignition system off that car onto the Duster once it's together.
 
Sometimes I look at your posts and think, "Jass seems like he needs a friend to talk to" :D
You've got a funny way of reaching out, Bob. 😄

If you're gonna run an MSD, do what everyone who's run one for any length of time does... keep a spare handy. 😉 Every circle-burner I've ever seen with an MSD had two of 'em.
 
maybe ive just been lucky with em, mine all date back into the mid 90s save for one of.."unknown" vintage with the way back original logo on it
 
Took Goldmember to the Lake the other day, for an inflatable kayak ride with the 3 year old... Drove nicely 40 minutes each way, but on the way home, the oil pressure light came on dimly at first and then bright solid red, cruising about 50mph. I was 10 minutes away and it was running fine, so said F it, the slant will be fine.

Got home, checked the oil and it's full, still clean from an oil change a few months back. Can't remember what oil I used. Either 10w40 shell diesel or 5w30 synthetic... Whatever I had on the shelf. I'm guessing either the oil is too thin when hot, or I have a bunk oil pressure sender. It was last changed in 2008.
 
The first thing I would check is the switch. It's entirely possible it's leaking internally or clogged with goo. If you've got an old mechanical gauge hanging around, you could install that for the moment just to be sure you've got adequate pressure. Cheap insurance to change the switch, though. On my '69 Valiant, I used an Allstar oil-pressure switch (their part number 99059) that lights up at 20PSI, rather than 4 or 7 or whatever the "too late now" rating of the OE switch. It glows faintly at idle on Agnes but I don't worry too much about it; the auxiliary gauge tells me the switch is right on the money at 20PSI.
 
I had a slant with a fist sized hole in the side of the block. They had to have done it on purpose "Let's see how far we can drive without any oil!"
 
The first thing I would check is the switch. It's entirely possible it's leaking internally or clogged with goo. If you've got an old mechanical gauge hanging around, you could install that for the moment just to be sure you've got adequate pressure. Cheap insurance to change the switch, though. On my '69 Valiant, I used an Allstar oil-pressure switch (their part number 99059) that lights up at 20PSI, rather than 4 or 7 or whatever the "too late now" rating of the OE switch. It glows faintly at idle on Agnes but I don't worry too much about it; the auxiliary gauge tells me the switch is right on the money at 20PSI.

I was thinking of using something like this Standard Motor Products PS233 oil sender with the S727 connector/harness to wire in an electric oil gauge and keep the warning light.

PS-233_Front__ra_p.jpg

PS-233_Connector__ra_p.jpg
S-727_Front__ra_p.jpg
S-727_Other__ra_p.jpg
 
I had a slant with a fist sized hole in the side of the block. They had to have done it on purpose "Let's see how far we can drive without any oil!"

Was it the #5 cylinder? Heard that's usually the first to go during oil starvation on a slant 6.
 
I was thinking of using something like this Standard Motor Products PS233 oil sender with the S727 connector/harness to wire in an electric oil gauge and keep the warning light.
As long as you're using the gauge for which the sender was designed (or one with the same calibratin), that's a pretty nice solution. Also, just a little FYI: That style of sender/switch is somewhat failure prone, as one would expect with ~70PSI inside a plastic housing. I'm a big fan of keeping the light, I'm not gonna lie.

I just used a 1/8"NPT street tee in the block. The switch is mounted on top, and the gauge's tubing (mechanical) comes out the side and points toward the hole in the firewall through which it passes. You'd likely need a three-way 1/8"FNPT tee and a short (1" or so) pipe nipple for block clearance if you wanted to use a universal electric gauge and a switch.
 
I just used a 1/8"NPT street tee in the block. The switch is mounted on top, and the gauge's tubing (mechanical) comes out the side and points toward the hole in the firewall through which it passes. You'd likely need a three-way 1/8"FNPT tee and a short (1" or so) pipe nipple for block clearance if you wanted to use a universal electric gauge and a switch.

I can cobble something together from brass npt fittings. Slant pressure senders/switches thread into a 3/8" npt hole in the oil pump. Not a lot of room, but can probably make it work. For now, I'll just toss in a new switch for the light and see how it works. I have no old gauge or tester to check the oil pressure.
 
Replaced the oil switch/sender thing, and the oil light hasn't come back on. Been bombing around in Goldmember quite frequently, picking the 3 year old up from daycare and she loves it. "I want daddy to pick me up in his old car!"

I'm enjoying the old slant and have an engine hoist and stand ready to be assembled for the 100,000 mile rollover. At 99,198 currently.

Then I had an idea, lets get rid of the slant and drop in a '94-'02 Magnum 5.9 or 5.2. Probably have to replace the rear-end and get a V8 transmission, but other than that, should be a fairly simple swap. Engine mounts are available for the slant 6 k-member. Hmm...
 

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