Jester's Progress...

[Jester]

Me too. Maybe something is wired incorrectly, but it's pretty basic stuff. On the bright side, I tried a third Voltage Regulator and now the overcharging situation is solved. 14.1-14.3ish at fast idle with no accessories on.

The bulkhead connector is in really good shape, lightly sanded the terminals and put a small bit of dielectric grease on them. Actually drilled out two of the empty terminals years ago and ran a 10 gauge fused wire from the alternator to Big red wire inside. Then from big Black wire to the Starter Relay stud. Probably should have left everything alone, but I can't help it... I'm Moparnuts.

 

[Jester]

Goldmember had a few exhaust manifold leaks at the junction box and into the exhaust pipe, possibly at the head as well. Smelled funky and carbon everywhere.

I happened to have a new exhaust manifold and a reconditioned cylinder head from a 79 (peanut head. No spark plug gaskets, A special stepped bolt for the rear of the rocker arm which I don't have, and some other small differences).

Thought about rebuilding the entire motor, but said F it, bottom end has good compression and 92000 miles. Pulled the old head off and found no wear ring at top of cylinders, just some carbon I rubbed off. Cylinder walls clean and unmarred, still slight trace of cross-hatch pattern.

Cleaned everything up and reassembled using the good remflex manifold gaskets. started 'er up and adjusted the valves, now Goldmember purrs like a kitten. No leaks so far, but have yet to install valve cover. Will do that today. Can't think of a better way to spend Father's day. (This took me 2 days and 2 evenings) I'm slow.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Jesticity got himself some motivation! I am duly impressed, my good man.

I always thought there was some reason the newer heads couldn't be used with the mechanical valvetrain, but everything there looks right and proper--especially with that high-falutin' two-barrel on it. Lord knows, I'm no expert on Slant Sixes, other than they don't like .180" valve lash, like Agnes had when I got her. The previous owner (BrainTrust) tried to set the lash while drinking, I think... either that, or he doesn't understand hundredths v. thousandths. He certainly didn't understand that loud mechanical valvetrain has literally nothing to do with oil pressure. He told me the engine was shot; it ran like a watch after I set the lash correctly.

 

[71dusterman]

You can actually shave .120 off the head to raise the compression. Slant 6's also like a $5.00 spring in the oil pump to increase oil pressure, a 5 minute job. An Offenhauser aluminum 4 bbl manifold with a Holly 500 cfm works well.

 

[Jester]

The old head had lots of carbon and I could turn 4 of the 6 extended tip spark plugs with two fingers. Wondering if that had anything to do with the starter kick when turning it off? Not sure if it's still happening, have only run it twice so far.

 

[Jester]

I always thought there was some reason the newer heads couldn't be used with the mechanical valvetrain...

I think the '78-'79 or so peanut head used mechanical valve train, some used hydraulic, and then all went hydraulic in the early 80's.

The only difference is you must remove the head to replace the lifters on the peanut head. Newer hydraulic heads also use a different valve cover. Oh, and that pesky rear rocker bolt is different as well.

All slant heads interchange with all blocks, but you must use hydraulic cam with hydro lifters and valvetrain, and same with mechanical.

 

[Jester]

You can actually shave .120 off the head to raise the compression. Slant 6's also like a $5.00 spring in the oil pump to increase oil pressure, a 5 minute job. An Offenhauser aluminum 4 bbl manifold with a Holly 500 cfm works well.

The old head will get hot tanked, milled .100 or so, and a valve job. Nothing too special, but it will go on once the engine is rebuilt in the future.

holley 500 with offy 4bbl may be part of the rebuild.

 

[Dr.Jass]

There was a gal at a neighboring high school we called "Peanut Head" because her head was peanut-shaped. Imagine Squidward with the jaw of the fat character in Dire Straits' "Money for Nothing" video. Slightly less facial hair, though.

I think the '78-'79 or so peanut head used mechanical valve train, some used hydraulic, and then all went hydraulic in the early 80's.

The only difference is you must remove the head to replace the lifters on the peanut head. Newer hydraulic heads also use a different valve cover. Oh, and that pesky rear rocker bolt is different as well.

All slant heads interchange with all blocks, but you must use hydraulic cam with hydro lifters and valvetrain, and same with mechanical.

OK, for some reason I was under the impression that the peanut heads were hydraulic-valvetrain only, and that the mechanical bits didn't work on 'em. Thanks for the explanation!

 

[Stretch]

Very good info Jester. Nice work too.

 

[Jester]

Good news. The starter kickback has not happened since replacing the head. Could loose spark plugs have caused it?
View attachment Driveway_20200712_160748.mp4

 

[Dr.Jass]

It's possible, I guess... I'm happy to hear it's not happening anymore, though. That kind of thing is frustrating, to say the least.

 

[Jester]

Installed a new old stock 2 barrel BBD carb, and Goldmember runs beautifully now. Had some time after work today, so finally cut holes in the hood for those twin scoops...

Pain in the butt, but used a bi-metal hole saw and went very slow, with bit of cutting oil.


de-burred and primed the bare metal



Installed rubber inserts


View from hood


Now I have to vacuum and toss out that pink sheet. I love pink.

 

[68R/T]

"Now I have to vacuum and toss out that pink sheet. I love pink."

C'mon, we know it's going back on the bed.

 

[Stretch]

Never use cutting oil on a hole saw. AVE said so as did a machinist friend of mine.

 

[Jester]

I'll remember that for next time. Any particular reason why?

I just tried to keep it cool so the hood wouldn't distort.

 

[Stretch]

I guess they are designed for slow RPM, and no cutting oil. Other than that. I have no idea.

 

[restoman]

Oil will keep any filings in the path of the teeth, negating any cooling or lubricating benefits.
NEVER run a hole saw fast. Also, don't ever loan your hole saw kit to anyone! DAMHIK to not do this...

 

[Jester]

Oil will keep any filings in the path of the teeth, negating any cooling or lubricating benefits.
NEVER run a hole saw fast. Also, don't ever loan your hole saw kit to anyone! DAMHIK to not do this...

That explains why I had to keep wiping the cutting blades off with a rag. I went super slow

 

[Jester]

Washed the car and blew a ballast resistor after it got wet, and have also had Mopar ecu issues in the past... So I spent a little time doing some less-than-obvious mods.

Cut out the contents of a Mopar ECU and soldered in a GM HEI ignition module, much like this. (Not mine, I forgot to take pics of the process).

 

[Jester]

Mounted the HEI on a sheet of aluminum I cut out, attached the mopar ecu cover and plugged it in. The blue wire is the hei ground, which could probably be eliminated since it is grounded to the case...