Building Project.

Diplomat_Wagon

Diplomat_Wagon

Hiding In The Bushes While
Putting up a new garage at my place. The old 18x22 garage was built 26 years ago and built flush with the alley and the yard ended up being built up around the garage trapping it under about 1 foot of dirt on two sides, eventually rotting out the walls.

The uncle of a friend of mine hauled the old garage off to his farm where he can patch fix it without having to conform to building codes.

And now the fun begins, I am on two weeks vacation until August 16th and am hoping to have a pad poured before next Saturday.


The new garage will be 26x30 with a 16' overhead door.

Up she comes.
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Away she goes.
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Digging down to the clay.
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Filling and packing.
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Finished filling and packing for now, gonna need another 4 truck loads of base to finishing building up the foundation for the pad.
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i bet after you get everything moved in you will be sad that its still too small :)

Who needs a backyard? they just grow grass ..... :)
 
Put in at least a 10' ceiling and you can then make use of a hoist. Mine has one and I like having the hoist in it. would get more use with it if my son's 74 Charger was finished and off of it.
 
also add in a permanant chain fall.

Ours runs side to side in the center of the 30x30 shop. Runs in the rafters so that a combine can back in. Back in 84 the shop was huge and combines were small. Now 25 years later combines barely fit.
I doubt you will be backing a combine in any time soon. But height is a better advantage with your limited square footage. Things can pile higher with a balcony inside to "store"
 
My garage is 26'x26'... not nearly big enough. However, you do have the height thing at your disposal... go up, rather than out.

Zoning laws suck. We don't have size restrictions in Kingsford, but distances from property lines, easements and even the house are major restrictions on a small lot like mine. My garage is only about 15 years old, but for some reason it was built with only a single 8'-wide door. :doh:

Keep us posted on this one. It sounds like it's going to be a pretty-nice shop. What are you doing for heat, inside finishing, etc.?
 
Insulated with 7-1/6 OSB walls and some kind of electric heat weather it be space or infrared heaters. Natural gas would be too much money to get it installed.

12' is the max Bylaw height but I can only afford to go 9' since it will be 2x4 walls.

No interest for a hoist as there are 4 at work I can use if need be. They take up too much space unless you get one of those scary looking "portable" ones.

If the need arises I'll probably just get a short lift, like a scissor lift or something like that but I doubt it. Always did it with jack stands and creepers why change now! :D
 
ill agree with "takes up too much space"..but damn usefull

as for the walls..theres a few t5ricks to gain some extra height..."raised wall" foundation..get yourself the extra foot or 3 there then youve got a nice height wall for hosing everything out etc and not rotted walls put in some ancors for dragging things around..or pulling mangled frames....but then you also get your rafter space to pile stuff up
 
Being able to use the hoist at work is great, as long as you don't run into an after-hours disaster that leaves the car stuck on the hoist. It happens.

I have a hatch going into my rafter/truss area, but I have a finished ceiling. It keeps the heat down by me, and saves a ton of furnace fuel. If you can, I'd suggest finding an old oil furnace and tank. I love mine--I can only use it when I can afford fuel, so I don't blow the electrical or natural-gas bill through the ceiling. If you go electric heat, don't use space or baseboard heaters as both are very inefficient. If you can get shop-type infrared to heat it while you're in there that would be much better, and something along the lines of this would work well to keep it at a low temp (say, 55°F) while you're not in the garage. I usually keep mine around 52°F when I'm not out there, for good reason: you can have toasty in the garage, but if that slab is ice cold, your feet will let you know it.

I agree with 69.5 about the raised foundation edges. Those are a very good idea for the reasons he mentioned, as well as helping to prevent springtime floor flooding. I have that problem only because of my walk-through door being low, and it only affects one corner of the garage, but guess where all the rust on the LeBaron formed?
 
have you looked into heated floor? So when your crawled under the cars you are still warm.


Also put more base than needed. Get that shop higher then the ground around you. Rain water does not like climbing hills. That extra dumptruck load will pay for itself.
 
if you can sack the space..a wood stove aint a bad idea either......if i was you id litteraly have the base of the garage floor a MINIMUM of 6 inches ABOVE ground level but would actualy shoot for 8-10. with a 2-3 foot foundation wall as well..id rather have a uphill to get in than have a flat or down hill for the water to run in on...and to the same with your "man door" go 6+ up from the garage floor a step up on both sides will keep the crap out when its POURING or the snows melting

something i always wanted to do was an improvised floor..run all the propper tube work and instead of water filled do some kind of antifreeze mix...ie extra hot extra cold NO freeze fears..and then heat it with a boiler and pump in the winter but run it thru a big freezer in the summer......but also run a coil assembly around a woodstove pipe for "alternative" heating of the water


something to consider while your building from scratch ...
you can NEVER have enuf outlets.....sure you may not use them all at the same time but extension cords all over the place SUCKS
its impossible to over insulate.....in the heat of summer it pays for itself..in the cold of the winter it pays for itself
plan for air lines...and running water out to the shop for washing out and up is a good idea too
plan for more power later...the heavier line you run now mean not re-doing it all later to makeup for not doing it in the first place
not sure what your plans are for materal...but the glass strand concreete KICKS ASS!!!!!! a normal thickness slab is actualy more than twice as strong as the old stuff...and harder to even chip
rip strip style expansion joints instead of the old 2x4 that eventualy sinks and jacks and dolleys get stuck on
coat the floor for cleanup....find what you like best and run with it!!!!!! not for stains mind you but for ease of cleanup
ventalation....a time will come when you want and need to evac the place in a hurry....a big fan and a vent in teh ceiling tied to a side roof vent...you can double use it for fresh air input if you have a reversable fan
DRAINAGE!!!!!!!i highly recomend a full length removeable grated drain INSIDE the shop just inches past the garage door..sounds silly i know but its double edged...you can wash things off with the door shut..but anything that sneaks in past the door on a hard rain is caught by it....another small drain in the other 2 corners of the shop is also a good idea but not entirely needed but it does ease the cleanup

i grew up with dad runnning a const company ..and have had many many years to think on shop building.....
 
Cooling the floor in the summer sounds like a nice idea, but can you imagine the condensation? :doh:
 
Give some serious thought to laying down some 2" foam board insulation before pouring that slab. It'll keep ground moisture from wicking up into the slab, and in the winter it will be much easier to heat the slab for those toasty feet! Keeps the slab much warmer as well, one it's got some heat in it.
Adds several hundred dollars to the initial cost, but you'll never regret spending it.
 
not a big fan of a drain in the shop ... Neighbour has a shop drain and when the water level is high or a wet spring. Water starts flowing into the shop from underneath. Their shop is 5 years old.

If shop is high enough then all the water will naturally drain out garage door.



Toilet near the compressed air lines. Suprisingly 100 PSI WILL unclog a toilet. ... dont ask how i know :)
 
Finished framing forms and packing the base for the pad, laid out the poly and tied all the rebar. The city inspector is coming tomorrow afternoon to inspect the forms before pouring and the concrete is ordered and will be here Friday morning.

The garage will be 26x30x10 insulated, sheeted, sided with white vinyl, blue metal roofing, soffit, fascia, an electric 16' electric door, one 36" metal side entrance door and one window facing the house. $10,000 taxes in and delivered. Wiring supplies will be extra but I have most of it already.

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Lots of interest here I see! :D

The pad is about 11" higher then the old one and about a minimum 8" higher then the yard.

Can't use the foam underneath a garage floor here. You can on a basement floor but not a garage pad. Same constricts as sidewalks and driveways.

A "raised" wall slab with footing would have been nice but cost a damn fortune in concrete. 14 yards to do the pad was $2,200.

City Bylaw max wall height is 12' but that also needs to be 2x6 wall and mine will be 2x4 wall and 10' is the max there.

Too much money for heated floor. Would have loved it but too expensive.

I would love to use a wood stove but they are now banned in town here, just a few unknowns and grandfathered ones around.

Since I live in Canada my garage doesn't need to be well insulated. :D

No drains, don't want them. The pad has a very gentle slope to the center and then out the door.

No joints or stress cuts. Just a pain.

The floor will be sealed with a gloss finish.

Gonna have shitpiles of lights and outlets.

Garage package will be even cheaper now then stated after some negotiations. :D Framing, trusses and overhead door ordered. 'Bout $9,500 for the complete package now. :giggedy:

Poured 14 yards of concrete this morning at 8:00 and finished power troweling about 2:00 this afternoon.

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All done! :)
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I'm beat, gonna pull the forms Monday. :D :p
 
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