65 Valiant build
- Thread starter Stretch
- Start date
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
I haven't started a build thread over there. I have a hard enough time keeping this one up to date.How many guys at FABO have asked you to make them one of those? They seemed to think it was impossible.
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
There is some rust in the A-pillar window channel on both sides. I went after the left side first. After removing the factory lead and cutting out the rust I needed to make a patch for the window channel. The challenge there is how to make a patch that is curved on multiple plans out of a flat piece of metal. What I did was lay tape down on the car over the hole. I then used a razor blade to cut it to the exact size of that hole. I then carefully removed the tape and stuck it to the flat metal. I transferred that shape to the metal by tracing it. After that I cut it out. Once cut out I could bend it around the curve of the window channel. That all alowed the flat repair panel to naturally fall right into place as I bent it around the curve. I also had to make a patch at the base of the A-pillar onto the cowel. I made that the same way. I also made it slightly bigger than needed. I used my stud gun to weld a tab to hold on to as I I welded it into place. I wielded it to the back of the panel so filler can be used to bring it up to height without it being to high.
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
On to the dirty . The thing that sold me on the rotisserie is access to the under body. I have big plans for this car. Those plans require a lot uf underbody fabracobbling. I am by no means a great welder. Being able to stand and brace my arms makes my welds require less grinding. 
The next step is undercoating removal. What a hateful job! That job was made slightly less hateful do to the rotisserie and a tool called " The Crud Thug". That and a puddy knife and a propane torch are what I tackled the task with.
The next step is undercoating removal. What a hateful job! That job was made slightly less hateful do to the rotisserie and a tool called " The Crud Thug". That and a puddy knife and a propane torch are what I tackled the task with.
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Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Now for the fun stuff!! The installation of the Us Cartool level 3 chassis kit.
By this time I was pretty certain I would be moving. I started thinking about the best way to move Ol' Stinky on the rotisserie and possible body flex while it is being transported in my car hauler. Was I worrying about nothing? Possibly. But why cause unneeded problems right?
The scramble ( so I thought) to install the sub frame connecters started. Scramble you ask. Well yah. I need to get this done to move it. I need to get it done likely had more to do with my own peace of mind and insanity than anything else. Also. It takes a lot longer to jump through the house buying hoops than I remember.
When looking at these pictures remember what I said in Jass's post about Agnes and my being a bit of a perfectionist.
By this time I was pretty certain I would be moving. I started thinking about the best way to move Ol' Stinky on the rotisserie and possible body flex while it is being transported in my car hauler. Was I worrying about nothing? Possibly. But why cause unneeded problems right?
The scramble ( so I thought) to install the sub frame connecters started. Scramble you ask. Well yah. I need to get this done to move it. I need to get it done likely had more to do with my own peace of mind and insanity than anything else. Also. It takes a lot longer to jump through the house buying hoops than I remember.
When looking at these pictures remember what I said in Jass's post about Agnes and my being a bit of a perfectionist.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
He plans to make it so nice he'll be terrified to actually drive it for fear of a scratch.
He's actually conceded this to some extent. 
Jester
In through the Out Door, so She's
He plans to make it so nice he'll be terrified to actually drive it for fear of a scratch.
The first scratch makes the following scratches hurt less. Can't wait to see the finished product. 
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Now after seeing the pictures the voice in your head is surely asking "WHAT THE FUCK IS HE DOING?"
The lazer pointers, soap stone reference marks, and strings were used to settle my mind about body flex. And to insure my subframe connectors are installed straight.
I planed all along to weld on the under body with the car inverted on the rotisserie. What I needed to know is does the car sag when upside down. The weight of the body is supported on the extream ends of the frame now. If it did sag and I welded the subframe connectors in with it "sagged" that sag would be a permanent arch when flipped upright. Would that affect door and fender alignment? Possibility.
Restoman and Jass both said the car is solid and wont move. Restoman suggested installing the doors. I didn't want to do that if I could avoid it. Jass said I was over thinking it. It wasnt going to move. Jass was correct. And Restoman's advice and confidence inspiring support has been invaluable! I can't thank you enough Resto!
Did I mention these U.S. Cartool parts fit awesome?!
The lazer pointers, soap stone reference marks, and strings were used to settle my mind about body flex. And to insure my subframe connectors are installed straight.
I planed all along to weld on the under body with the car inverted on the rotisserie. What I needed to know is does the car sag when upside down. The weight of the body is supported on the extream ends of the frame now. If it did sag and I welded the subframe connectors in with it "sagged" that sag would be a permanent arch when flipped upright. Would that affect door and fender alignment? Possibility.
Restoman and Jass both said the car is solid and wont move. Restoman suggested installing the doors. I didn't want to do that if I could avoid it. Jass said I was over thinking it. It wasnt going to move. Jass was correct. And Restoman's advice and confidence inspiring support has been invaluable! I can't thank you enough Resto!
Did I mention these U.S. Cartool parts fit awesome?!
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Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Now that the frame connectors are welded in I moved on to the inner fender/shock tower/firewall gussets. Once again U.S.Cartool parts fit damn near perfectly. I had minimal grinding on the frame connectors to make them fit the floor pans. And remember I had changed the pans. The inner fender gussets fit even nicer. I had to do no grinding at all to fit them to the car!
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
And the last thing I did before the move was prime all the bare metal. While the epoxy primer was drying I sandblasted the K-Frame. I have a "Firm Feel" K-Frame gusset kit here for it. I also am thinking about modifying the idler arm mount and possibly the engine mounts.
The gusset kit is a must! Its amazing just how flimsy this thing is.
Notice the yellow paint markings? I'm guessing those are some kind of factory reference markings. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
The gusset kit is a must! Its amazing just how flimsy this thing is.
Notice the yellow paint markings? I'm guessing those are some kind of factory reference markings. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
That pretty much wraps up the progress for now. This project is on hold for now. At least untill I get my garage up and ready.
To answer your question Jester, I had originally planned to just swap it over to a V8 4 speed and leaving the paint as is. In the ten years it took to finally get my hands on it the owner had backed his tractor into it in the barn. That damaged the hood and valance.
That damage also changed my plan. Now Its getting the full U.S.Cartool level 3 chassis kit. That kit includes a radiator core support reinforcement member, inner fender braces, subframe connectors, torque boxes, mini tubs, and spring relocation. I have a K-frame reinforcement kit from Firm Feel, a 8.75 rear diff, and KH front disc brakes. The transmission will be a A833. The engine will be a 1971 340 with Megasquirt fuel injection with spark control. The engine will be red and dressed to look like a Commando 273 including the black wrinkle Commando valve covers. The transmission and bell housing will also be red. The Doug Thorley under chassis headers will be powder coated dark gray or cast iron.
The interior will be getting a 1966 Barracuda dash with tach. Barracuda front bucket seats. I will be using the 1965 four speed hump because I want the round shifter hole. That will alow the use of the sweet 4 speed shifter bezel. That will also make the shifter boot much more difficult to find and deal with! The entire interior will be bright red. All of it. Anything metal will be painted red unless it is chrome. The body will be a bright silver metallic. Im thinking VW reflex silver.
To answer your question Jester, I had originally planned to just swap it over to a V8 4 speed and leaving the paint as is. In the ten years it took to finally get my hands on it the owner had backed his tractor into it in the barn. That damaged the hood and valance.
That damage also changed my plan. Now Its getting the full U.S.Cartool level 3 chassis kit. That kit includes a radiator core support reinforcement member, inner fender braces, subframe connectors, torque boxes, mini tubs, and spring relocation. I have a K-frame reinforcement kit from Firm Feel, a 8.75 rear diff, and KH front disc brakes. The transmission will be a A833. The engine will be a 1971 340 with Megasquirt fuel injection with spark control. The engine will be red and dressed to look like a Commando 273 including the black wrinkle Commando valve covers. The transmission and bell housing will also be red. The Doug Thorley under chassis headers will be powder coated dark gray or cast iron.
The interior will be getting a 1966 Barracuda dash with tach. Barracuda front bucket seats. I will be using the 1965 four speed hump because I want the round shifter hole. That will alow the use of the sweet 4 speed shifter bezel. That will also make the shifter boot much more difficult to find and deal with! The entire interior will be bright red. All of it. Anything metal will be painted red unless it is chrome. The body will be a bright silver metallic. Im thinking VW reflex silver.
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
The good thing about the change of plans is I am using this car to learn body work. I want to do everything myself. What better way to learn right?
I've said it before and I'm sure I'll say it again. Restoman has been a huge help. He has been more than willing to answer any questions I have. His advice is confidence inspiring and easy to understand. I wish we lived closer to each other. I would love to learn from him first hand in person. Thank you Resto!
The bad thing about the change of plan is my perfectionism is going to make me build the damn thing so nice I'll likely be afraid to drive it ( just as Jass said) let alone beat the hell out of it in the occasional autocross like I had originally planned.
I've said it before and I'm sure I'll say it again. Restoman has been a huge help. He has been more than willing to answer any questions I have. His advice is confidence inspiring and easy to understand. I wish we lived closer to each other. I would love to learn from him first hand in person. Thank you Resto!
The bad thing about the change of plan is my perfectionism is going to make me build the damn thing so nice I'll likely be afraid to drive it ( just as Jass said) let alone beat the hell out of it in the occasional autocross like I had originally planned.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Although I'm not the perfectionist you are, that was what I'd wanted for my Challenger originally. Then I thought of Freddy's Challenger, and learned from it. He's got ~$29K invested (including the car itself) due to his own perfectionism, and he's put less than 1,000 miles on it since it was completed 10+ years ago--including his 120-mile move home. He was so happy when he got that car. He drove the wheels off it for a year in the Plum Crazy paint that he didn't like, and had a blast doing it. Since it was finished, it largely sits.
As such, particularly since mine's going to be black, I've changed my mind. New-car-quality paint is more desirable than show quality to me; I recognize that the underside being too shiny and perfect is a liability to my enjoyment. I went from a balls-out W2-head EFI 340 (possibly turbocharged) to one with mid-9 compression and a factory Six Pack--something I wanted for the first car back in '88--because I actually enjoy the old-car feeling, carbs and all (the EFI Six Pack being TBI is just retarded anyway). Will it be a rocket ship? Probably not; I really don't even expect it to be as fast as my freakish Trans Am was. If it can pass with authority and not get 9MPG, I'll be pretty happy. If I can get in it and reasonably drive fearlessly to, I dunno, Florida, all the better. Weather permitting, I want to put tens of thousands of (hopefully trouble-free) miles on the car. No point in having a garage ornament, so concerns about rock chips or rainstorms are counterproductive to my plans.
Of course, I also have Agnes for the ragged-edge street machine, but the plan's always been to sell that car. The sheer scope of the Imperial project leaves it a long way off. Funny, I'd planned to finish that car first.
.I guess it turns out I want a car a lot like your Charger, only all-new and built exactly to my specs. To be totally honest though, I think for sheer fun-to-drive silliness, Agnes will be a hard act to follow for anything but another well-built beater.
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
Nothing wrong with wanting to do the absolute best job you can. If more people thought like that, we'd be better off as a society. 
I don't know if I mentioned this before, but when we were doing DCF's '69 Charger, we swapped out the complete front frame rail, both complete rocker assemblies, the torsion bar crossmember and sectioned both rear frame rails, plus the US Car Tool frame connectors while dangling the car from my rotisserie.
I hung the quarters whilst on the spinner, too, if I recall. With the doors on...
A LOT of bracing and measuring took place throughout the adventure (those lasers would have been killer), but it all worked out perfectly. The Mopar uni-body is one incredibly strong chassis.
Patience and measuring everything multiple times is key!
I don't know if I mentioned this before, but when we were doing DCF's '69 Charger, we swapped out the complete front frame rail, both complete rocker assemblies, the torsion bar crossmember and sectioned both rear frame rails, plus the US Car Tool frame connectors while dangling the car from my rotisserie.
I hung the quarters whilst on the spinner, too, if I recall. With the doors on...
A LOT of bracing and measuring took place throughout the adventure (those lasers would have been killer), but it all worked out perfectly. The Mopar uni-body is one incredibly strong chassis.
Patience and measuring everything multiple times is key!
Jester
In through the Out Door, so She's
Sounds like a lot of fun, but I hope you drive it as much as possible. You can always have it painted again down the road, as well as replace worn out parts.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
I can attest to having a car too nice to want to drive, my 68 Coronet 500 rag was just that and the winter months were spent refurbishing parts and pieces to rectify all those rock chips, paint discoloration and deterioration.
I have never wanted to go back to show car paint and date coded this and that, proper paint and plating on all the suspension parts etc, just exhausting to maintain and not fun to drive the car because your always listening for that ding and wondering what you will have to redo and fix now. Now as long as it looks decent and the underside is clean looking then I'm more then happy.
I have never wanted to go back to show car paint and date coded this and that, proper paint and plating on all the suspension parts etc, just exhausting to maintain and not fun to drive the car because your always listening for that ding and wondering what you will have to redo and fix now. Now as long as it looks decent and the underside is clean looking then I'm more then happy.