Project Fur-Kota!

340EH

340EH

Well-known member
After some spirited debate with and the kind support of my loving wife, I am planning to merge the Fury and Dakota into a single vehicle. The broad strokes are that the Fury will become my daily driver using as much of the running gear from the Dakota as possible. The front clip from the Dak and Rear axle and hopefully the ABS will be going into the Fury the 5.2 and 5 speed will replace the slant and TF in the Fury now. The body will be repaired and given a quality “Driver” paintjob and the underside will be bathed in truck bedliner. I will then sell auction/ bargain remaining parts from the Fury and Dakota to help fund the project.

66 Fury I.jpg
 
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So I'm hoping to make this thread as long and detailed as Rusty's but lets's take it little by little here.

I figure I'll strip the fruy right down to a rolling body. I never did plumb the brake lines for the 69 NY disks I bought for it so it wont have brakes which will be a shame should I have to move it down my driveway (slopes down to the street) I wonder if it'd be worth it to plumb them up anyway?

The truck is a little harder to figure as it's still plated and usefull for hauling.

I'd like to be able to get ALL of the wiring harness out of the Truck and keep as much as possible of the rest from the rear axle forward. ABS, polution stuff, I'm torn on wether to try to keep the factory Fury Dash or transplant the Dakota dash. The fury does not have a clutch pedal right now so I'm wondering if I doo go with the Dakota dash go a little farther and graft in a bit of the fire wall too. This of course would hurt the value of the Dakota cab assuming I could find a buyer for it.

Now that I have a welder I can tackle some of the smaller things like sealing up the trim holes down the side of the car and maybe some patch panels down low theres a decent dent in the rear pass quarter that I might try cutting out and replacing but I'm going to start in the trunk where no one cas see before I go anywhere near that.
 
Some scans I took of the FSM's for the Dakota and Fury

dakota frame measurements 2.jpgfury frame measurements.jpgdakota frame measurements 1.jpg
I actually sent these to a Kustom shop near Oshawa to try and get a quote on the whole deal. the guy said that about a month of shop time would get me 90% of the way there and quoted me around 7k for that. I must admit that I thought that was pretty reasonable, I'm not sure how "Doable" it is.
 
Is the Dak 4WD by chance? Thinking an all wheel drive Fury would be WICKED!![smilie=i:
 
ok...everyone knows i like a good kitbash..but WHY do you want to save the emissions and the abs..thsoe would be the first 2 things to AXE ASAP.....also im not sure why you wouldnt run the ny'er discs over the dak units unless the dak's are bigger still

some of the swapage will prove tricky..donw wrong your going to be in a world of hell....and i would NOT graft firewall chunks if you dont have to as it gets messy in a hurry

the engine/trans i TOTALY understand tho

ill give you advice in directions if youd like but im going to need some good shots of specific area's...what year is the dak?...i can go out to a local yard and look it over and may be able to really lend you a virtual hand
 
Dakury would have worked too, I wish I had thought of that.

69.5 I hear you, but, The ABS I like because it's basically invisible and in all the time I've had the truck I've never noticed it. The emissions stuff I have to keep to make my life easier I don't want to have to start putting in sim boxex to fool the computer into thinking the o2's are reading properly I've heard lots of dakota buddies complaining about trying to install things like pre cat dump tubes etc and throwing codes I just want the stuff to work just like it is now I'm not looking for max performance. Also they are playing with legislation up here where your vehicle may at some point in the future have to pass emisions standards for the newest Major component in the system.
 
ok well in that case i understand the emission controls..your just thinking ahead far enuf...personaly id have got MS or something like that as standalone setups are tuneable..FULLY

as for the ABS..well...i HATE the systems..its to many parts to many things to break or go bad and the list goes on and on...but if you want em i wont stop you ill help you use them and integrate it as much as i can

so what yer dak is it and what year fury?...tech specs mean nothing to me i need to run my paws over the REAL rigs and im pretty sure i can find them both in wreckers to get an idea of the project and may be able to really help steer you in the right direction
 
The Dakota is a 98 Sport reg cab and sorry Fishy it is a 2wd. The Fury is a 66 Fury I 2dr post with slanty and auto trans. As far as MS goes, it looks like a great option but since I'll be taking all the wiring out of the Dakota I'll already have the harness and computer for my engine trans combo without spending a dime.
 
You can fool the downstream O2s without anything fancy. Buy a couple of O2 sensor bungs (a couple bucks each at the local parts store), weld 'em into holes cut in the framerails. Install the downstream O2s into those bungs and they'll sniff nice, clean ambient air. Better exhaust flow (and therefore power and efficiency, no converters to clog or stink, and the computer's happy as a lark with no Check Engine light ever to be seen. Plus, in that environment those sensors will literally last forever.

I think he's planning on swapping the rear axle too, Dipster, so it's probably not an issue except needing to run Dakota rolling stock. It'd certainly raise eyebrows and curiosity with the knowledgeable. The wheels on the Dakota look pretty swank, too. :dance:
 
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Yep! the wheels on the Dak are legit one off BBS rims (LM's 2 piece forged aluminum) for a Durango display vehicle they did. I found them on-line when I was looking for factory Viper 18" rims for my truck. The set of them with like new rubber cost a hair over the price of one new 18" in the Fury BP.
 
340EH said:
Yep! the wheels on the Dak are legit one off BBS rims (LM's 2 piece forged aluminum) for a Durango display vehicle they did. I found them on-line when I was looking for factory Viper 18" rims for my truck. The set of them with like new rubber cost a hair over the price of one new 18" in the Fury BP.
Click to expand...

BBS Wheels!?

NICE!!! :clap:

What Size are they? 5 or 6 bolt?
 
View attachment 11517View attachment 11517I think they are 18 x 8 they have 265 65 wrangler f1's on them right now I seriously doubt they will fit under the fury I think I'll have to go down to a 50 or 45 AR. Hopefully there is a better picture of them. They are Dakota 6 bolts.
ACR09.JPG
 
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I agree with 69, the tires should fit.

I think this is a great project. If you want to go manual trans you can keep your eyes open for a 4 speed pedal assembly for a 65-68 C-body. Or you could probably make a clutch pedal from a 80-93 dodge ram or van work, with a little cutting and fabbing brackets.
 
the problem i forsee right now..clutch wise..is that even a hack and slash out of the dak wont fix it..and thats the fact you need a propper fitting pedal for your body of car...then you have to adapt it to a HYD master...
there is a trick here...and that is get a propper stock pedal for your body..then find a spot on the firewall that works but matches the travel line of the stock pedal..then drill a SMALL hole and verify that you can get a push rod thru there to line up with the pedal...your going to have to calculate the pedal travel vs mc size..use the truck as a referance only.....then get your wall setup for the hyd master and pushrod..mod the pedal to take a pushrod instead of linkage...and that should solve that issue


ill prolly kitbash out the idea's lil by little....id also if you can...take whatever measurements you can of the dak trans and base them off of points on its engine..this will help you calculate what will need to be changed on the car body to accomidate it...i know basing it off the engine sounds funny..BUT...altho the trans bolt pattern is diferent on a slanty the position of the house and size of the trans is the sameso if youe measuremnts work from the bell house lip youll be golden for calculating it
 
69.5 said...

im not talking pulling the motor im talking using the bellhouse edge as a referance for measurements for fitment

I can do that I have to get a notebook and start measuring. Meet a guy last night who just started in Material handling who does racecar fab who seem really interested in my project. also got a great book on welding I'm reading between material moving.
 
start with trans calculations..cause floor space and clutch would be my first concerns..i know seems silly but they can prove to be hell later..and actualy be a deal breaker once your in the middle of the project scratching your head

the "other" issue that concerns me is check the engine placement in regades to the centerline of the front wheels...i know..a lil fabbing will fix it but you may run into MASSIVE pan issues...measure from the trans face of the engine to the centerline of the front end and check it against both rigs ..so long as its not drasticly off your fine..but report back the #'s iif its more than a few inches...we may have to start thinking custom crossmember at the worst or at the least custom pan

everything else should be fairly straight forward..my only other concern in my head is ACTUAL track width..not what some book says but the REAL track...go out and measure the front of the truck..outside of rubber face to outside of rubber face both front and rear then check the car...i want to make sure the wheels will fit in the wheel wells......i ran into something similar when i was considering a lincoln swap under my 58 ford...dont think a few inches is a big deal...its a DEAL BREAKER if you dont have fully open rear wheel wells
 
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