1983 Dodge Challenger

b-body-bob

Well-known member
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155560951129

I never realized how much this looks like a fox body mustang

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I think they are actually smaller than these photos make it seem

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Dodge Challenger drag street roller small tire race Mopar.

Roller clear Ohio paper work 10 in tire 83 Dodge Challenger aka Mitsubishi Galant roller NO motor transmission included …set up for small block Mopar and 904 trans car will need wiring no interior just one racing seat 8 pt cage frame tied comes with motor mounts, headers, fuel system, radiator front end has new wheel bearings, brake lines and master cyl has been rebuilt Solid car has very small amount of rust on lower drivers door easy fix local pick up or can help with deliver up to 400 for a fee

At 202 bucks right now. I don't know how it would hold up to rip snorting on the street but it could be a cheap fun car.
 
I never realized how much this looks like a fox body mustang
And it predated the Mustang by a year. Those weren't actually horrible cars, it was just horrible that they stuck the Challenger name on it. The 2.6L 5-speeds were actually fun cars. They'd be even more fun with a transplanted Starion ESi/Conquest TSi turbo engine, and probably a riot with a 4G63T from the Diamond-Star triplets (Eclipse/Laser/Talon), which can be done with a specific, fairly-rare bellhousing from a Mighty Max/D50 pickup.

This one looks like it could be a hoot, but I'd want to do something about changing the front suspension enough to get a 5-lug pattern and brakes more capable than 10" solid rotors only half an inch thick when new. The OE brakes don't sound like much fun in an "oh, shit" situation with a 500lb small block.
 
good point on the brakes doc, of course alil googlefoo tells me that some hondas run the same bolt patern soooo id wager with a lil creativity you could put a pretty big honda/acura rotor on it with little more than a caliper mount adapter 90/early200 to be specific..so theres a big aftermarket for those hondas which tells me you could go CRAZY with the front brakes pretty easily
 
Hmmmm, that's kinda cool, except the misapplied moniker as Doc stated.

I know it's not the same, but my aunt had a 1980ish Plymouth Arrow when I was a kid that I thought was a neat car.
 
"if" these had taken off and been a rival with the fox body i could have actualy gotten behind the chally name
 
I know it's not the same, but my aunt had a 1980ish Plymouth Arrow when I was a kid that I thought was a neat car.
It's very similar, and quite a few pounds lighter. Another car that could've been a source of many giggles with a potent turbo four in it. Glidden's W2 Pro Stockers were Arrows, as you'll recall.

"if" these had taken off and been a rival with the fox body i could have actualy gotten behind the chally name
I could never get behind four-lug wheels. They just scream "economy car" to me.
The only time I've found them to be cool was on the Penske SCCA Javelin, when Mark Donohue suggested having custom hubs, axles, and wheels made with a four-lug pattern. The competition didn't think much of it until the first pit stop. The Javelin team shaved several seconds off their pit time by having four less nuts to remove and reinstall. Then everyone lost their minds over it. Donohue asked to see the rule that forbade it. There wasn't one. That changed in a hurry.
The Penske team held the pit time record with that car for years. I don't know if those parts still exist, but none of the remaining SCCA Javelins have them. It was an epic exploitation of the rules, right out in the open.

It still looked silly, though:

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in this day n age 4lug vs 5lug is kinda moot, admitedly it weirds me out to find toyotas rockin 5x4.5(114.3)but really everyones kinda embraced it almost as a standard ...in the end i find the 4 vs 5 to be an asthetic to the wheels not the car IE a 5spoke on 4lug is just weird ditto for a 4spoke wheel with 5 lugs, or even a 6spoke with 5

i wonder what 4 they used on that jav..i bet it was 108(euro ford alfa audi) since that was probably the widestly common one that would have had wheels availible...course i guess vw 130 would have also been possible, but i feel like that would have been unlikely......of course weld up the hubs/axles and re-drilling them as 4x114 instead of 5x114 would have assured some simplisity and the lack of needing to really change much aside from some holes..also the 114 would have had those wheels availible off the shelf for the road race toyotas
 
I hate 4 lug wheels, but I've never been a big import guy either.

I absolutely detest the 6X4-1/2" Dakota/Durango bolt pattern, I will be swapping mine to 5X4-1/2, but I have really considered 5X115 for it, because the Daimler based Fiats have the appropriate wheel offset.
 
i wonder what 4 they used on that jav..i bet it was 108(euro ford alfa audi) since that was probably the widestly common one that would have had wheels availible..
It was 5x4.5". Nothing was production-based for any model. Every component was custom-built, including the Hurst/Airheart hubs and rotors, Minilites, and (I believe) Mark Williams axles.

I absolutely detest the 6X4-1/2" Dakota/Durango bolt pattern, I will be swapping mine to 5X4-1/2, but I have really considered 5X115 for it, because the Daimler based Fiats have the appropriate wheel offset.
How does one do that? Short of redrilling, I couldn't find a bolt-on way to do it to my '92... at least, not with reputable parts. I wasn't buying some one-off POS I can't replace through normal channels, and wheel adapters are an insurance-canceller.
 
It differs amongst the 3 generations and 4 suspensions in the Dakota family, luckily I have the best generation. 🤣

There are a few ways people have done it, one is having hubs, rotors and axles welded and drilled into a proper pattern.

There's another version with Crown Vic hubs, Explorer 4X4 rotors, if I remember correctly, it gets a little janky mixing and matching parts.

Another feller has taken '03/04 Dakota knuckles, '94-'04 Mustang Hubs (with spindle machined down to fit, roughly 34.1mm IIRC), '13 Mustang GT dual piston calipers and '13 Mustang GT 13.2" rotors. You need a 5/8" spacer(s) for the caliper brackets. Weld and drill the rear axles, or buy new, and drill the rotors.
I'm going with version 3 myself, little pricier, but more off the shelf parts on the front.
 
Heh... that's what I guessed. Ain't no pickup in the world worth that much chicanery just to change a bolt pattern.

If it can't be replaced it on the side of the road on vacation, I'm out. Finding wheels for the stupid bolt pattern is one thing, but a failed hub assembly that requires welding and precision re-machining (hence, voiding the warranty) before I can even install it? Hard no.
 

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