What are you working on?

I had a dumb ass costumer who listened to a contractor about there A/C, won't go into that long story, but after all was done they could cool either the 1st or 2nd floor, not both at the same time, I added another unit & split the floors.
About 2 years later they had a public service (our gas co.) in for a service call he said they needed BOTH units replaced, mine was 2 years old the other about 5
.
When he finally called me I put a fan motor in the older unit, there was nothing else wrong with both.
I guess they give a good commission to there techs!
 
Dr.Jass said:
I asked him how long it would take a 2-3% increase in efficiency to pay for itself in a <650'sq. house, or if maybe that money was better spent upgrading the century-old windows. "Definitely do the windows," he agreed, so I promptly didn't.
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Imagine this - this house is a cinderblock structure, clad in brick and whatever the hell the rock hard stuff on the inside walls is. The exterior walls with outlets on them have been furred out but behind everything, it's cinderblock to brick. The R-value of concrete block is 1.89. This place is like a freezer. It's gonna stand here forever though.

FWIW the exterior walls are the reason for wiring in the crawlspace. At some point there was no wiring in the exterior walls at all. Some moron also cut an inch off the bottom of the baseboards in the living room when they carpeted over the hardwood. Seems they thought they needed to sink the tackstrips under the baseboard. Like I said, some moron. So it's old and AFU but it's been paid for since about 2010 or so and it is what it is. Someday it will be someone else's pride and joy but not before I'm dust.

Dr.Jass said:
The new belt was a whopping $6, but my back hasn't been well enough to work on the damned thing (which is mostly disassembled at this point).
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To replace the belt don't you have to wrestle that drum around out of the chassis? Yeah, not so good for a sore back.

RUSTY Cuda said:
Well then I hope to see you have survived with a sat. am post! Good luck!
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Friday is hunting and gathering, Saturday is the doing.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
I guess they give a good commission to there techs!
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That reminds me of the way these yobos patched up the plumbing under here. There are sharkbite repairs that I made within inches of a pro-press repair that they did. Why didn't they go all the way back to the sharkbite? Wanting repeat business or some other scam related to charging for a full stick of copper but using as little as possible?
 
b-body-bob said:
To replace the belt don't you have to wrestle that drum around out of the chassis? Yeah, not so good for a sore back.
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On mine, the only apparent or seemingly obvious way to change it is to lie the dryer on its back. The only thing holding the drum in place is a ring stamped in each panel on its ends, so once the front panel is removed to access the motor (underneath, of course) the drum falls out. I have the panel pulled away but not removed, and the drum is supported by a wire hanger at the moment (what would I do without wire hangers?!) but of course, the hanger needs to be gone to get the belt around the drum. The obvious answer? Lay it down. The drum stays centered on the rear ring while I install the belt. Then just put it back on its four feet.

It's the weight of the machine that keep me from both the lay-down and lifting procedures. My level of frustration is nearly enough to just kick the thing over, but that doesn't help me get it back to vertical.
 
b-body-bob said:
It might be worth a try of punching the make/model into the googlebox to see if there's a how to video to confirm your suspicions.
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It's a Kenmore. That's literally all that's written on the thing. There's no model number, serial number, VIN tag, build sheet, Certicard, etc. Its only other distinguishing feature is being an "apartment" dryer--it's a bit smaller than a normal one.
I bought it from an ex-girlfriend almost 20 years ago; I don't know if one of the kids got bored (or she did) and peeled the labels or what. The only way I could find the belt was to cross-reference the number that was on the old one, which was barely visible.
 
That's odd, they've got the next best thing to a VIN and fender tag on the appliances I've had to repair.
 
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b-body-bob said:
That's odd, they've got the next best thing to a VIN and fender tag on the appliances I've had to repair.
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I'm sure this one did at one point, too. If they're there, I haven't taken it far enough apart to find 'em. It's not on either side of the back panel nor inside the machine behind the back panel. The top is off, the control panel removed and the front panel half off.
Nada. Sqvat. Zilch.
It says "Kenmore" on the control panel opposite the control knob, and that's it. Were it not for that, I'd have no idea what make it was.
 
Gina informed me we're going to buy the parts tonight but I'm not allowed to cut the water off until after Xmas. Just in case, you see. I have been known to turn mole hills into mountains, so ...

If I can get those 20' sticks wound up in the Dakota's bed tonight, I'll go ahead and work them underneath tomorrow and hang it loosely so it's mostly ready to switch over. "hang it loosely" is so there's some slack to give me the inch or so of flex needed to get a pipe in the shark bites. I'm thinking hangers in the middle of pipes at either end, and away from the T's going off in the middle of it all. They'll just be screwed to the joists so it's not a huge deal to unhang it in places if needed. Using 1/2" is sort of a blessing for this, that is pretty flexible, but 3/4" not really.
 
BTW the long sticks are a lot floppier than the rolled PEX. When you pick it up in the middle it just naturally and easily folds pretty much in half. I laid them down in the bed in a shape like one of those breast cancer decals and tied the ends together so it couldn't decide to moving around. Doubtful that was needed though.

One stick has a kink in it about a foot from the end, 2-3 of the others look like a towmotor ran over one end. I did an internet order to save trying to move 20' lengths of pipe through the store to the checkout so I didn't get to pick and choose. it was disappointing, but all in all I think it was a fair trade to save the hassle. I'm not even sure you can get to the long lengths to sort through them anyway.

Still need to go do the deed though, but everything is staged and ready to go under.
 
Merry Christmas, Moparnut-suckers!

Imported a Mitsubishi from out of Province, since a relative was going to return the Leased SUV to the dealership, rather than pay $8000 to own it. A 4 year old vehicle with 60,000km... So I said I'll buy it out and have it transported over. All done, not cheap.

So it passed the out of Province inspection, and I took it elsewhere to have winter tires mounted and balanced etc...

They removed 3 wheels with no issue. They broke a stud on the 4th wheel, then asked if I wanted them to continue in case they broke more. I said "No, just put the wheels back on, I'll take it home and get them off."

I got them all off, after every single stud snapped with barely any pressure. Overtorqued and stretched studs?

Replaced all 5 studs and nuts for $30 in parts. Would have cost a fortune at the shop.
 
doc the better question is..what will we do when we RUN OUT of wire coathangers?!?!?!?!?
if you pop the control panel up and off the main frame there is "useualy" a wireing diagram sheet under a clip in there..ive yet to see a kenmore without one..unless someone tossed it...furthermore theres often a second "vin" in there as well...this may aid you...honestly tho it sounds like the same "base" kenmore thats been around forever with just different control boards and "apearances"
 
69.5CUDA said:
RUN OUT of wire coathangers
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Gina banned them from our house long ago. I have to grab every one I find and hide it in the garage.

FWIW the wire stands from pollical yard signs works just as good. We ended up with a bunch of those from somewhere and I stripped the wire out of them for future use.
 
If you ever want to know what it feels like to be beat with a bag of marbles, stop by and crawl around under this house for 3 hours. It does make ice cold beer taste better though.

I eventually gave up on try to hand-knee crawl and just laid down and pulled myself along.

I reconnoitered and hung 2 20' pieces of blue and red today. Yep, that took 3 hours. There's another leak just before the one I noticed the last time. Like the other one it's just kind of seeping not spraying. I kept waiting to get a shower under there but so far so good. I probably should've turned the water off but I'm an idiot and didn't even think to do it. It could've gotten exciting with me here home alone but stupidity won out again.

I counted 7 patches in the cold water run.
 
my wife banned them too but let me keep what i had in a box..the box has dwindled

it almost sounds to me like you would be better off putting a shutoff valve under the house just so you dont have to crawl out to test come back and find something leaking only to turn tail n do it again..and no stupid spiny BS no a big fat 90 deg ball valve
 
69.5CUDA said:
it almost sounds to me like you would be better off putting a shutoff valve under the house just so you dont have to crawl out to test come back and find something leaking only to turn tail n do it again..and no stupid spiny BS no a big fat 90 deg ball valve
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I'm not cutting it in until there's someone here to turn it on and off for me. About a year ago I put a ball valve in the garage where it comes into the house to save going to the meter to turn it on/off.

I thought about putting in ball valves to let me cut off each bath and the kitchen individually, then counted up how much that would cost and imagined how much good it would do and didn't.
 
If there's anything worse than being in a crawl space it's being in a crawl space where water is running from one side to the center to the sump. I got soaked in god knows what under there. Didn't last as long as yesterday but I'm starting to see the end. I think (hope) I worked past where the water was crossing my path.
 
I caught the mother of all head colds Christmas eve and havent' felt like doing anything until today. I also have to go back to work Wednesday so I'm running out of time.

It's together and working but IMO we lost a bunch of hot water pressure in the tub only, which is weird. Gina says it's been like that for a while but I'm skeptical.

I was catching cramps on the way out so I didn't go back under to eyeball the 2 connections that I can't see from the entry. One is crimped PEX and that's not leaking. The other is a sharkbite and I figured if it's leaking there's not a damned thing I can do about it but throw more fittings and pipe at it with little hope of success. I'm trying to talk myself into crawling under to eyeball it again, but that feels unlikely to happen before tomorrow.

In the run there is a sharkbite on either end and a crimpled coupler in the middle of both hot and cold lines.

I replaced about 40' of copper all together. I didn't finish it to the end, just to the tees going to the first bath.
 
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