keeping aluminum ...aluminum

69.5CUDA

Blah Blah Blah
so i have a VERY clean nice ..neerly new looking why-and dual plane intake for my 440..thing is ive done ALOT of things over the years and never once have a found a solid solution on how to keep aluminum looking nice and like aluminum

ive tryed clears ive tryed polish..nothing last long or holds out..all the clears ive done have yellowed BAD..course maybe theres a brand out there that works/>

certainly SOMEONE has a trick out there?
 
Paint it.

When I was circle track racing we had to use factory parts. They also could not be aluminum. I ran a factory aluminum 2bbl intake for years (the track had a no 4bbl rule). I got away with it by painting it and sprinkling brake lathe shavings over it for each coat but the last. The inspectors magnet stuck to it every time. :D

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point is..i HATE painted aluminum.....painting it to "look" like aluminum is even a last resort in my book and sits right next to painting it clear
 
Aluminum is a funny material. It's not actually a metal, but it's closer to a metal than a non-metal (technically, it's a metalloid). Regardless, any kind of coating will change its appearance. Powdercoat is nothing more than fancy paint, and it looks like paint. Anyone who's ever looked at Detroit Vintage Wheels' website can tell you their wheels all just look wrong clearcoated, which is why my Minilite reproductions are raw. There's no real way to preserve raw aluminum's particular look of which I'm aware, and the guys that made my wheels told me they've found nothing themselves (they also refuse to powdercoat their wheels, even at customer request). Any kind of polish will obviously ruin either the rough-cast centers or the spun rims.

As far as cleaning back to the original raw, as-cast look goes, you can get very good results with aluminum hull cleaner and a stiff, non-metal bristle brush. That having been said, you've really gotta want it. First of all, many of those offerings are essentially pure acid and will destroy their surroundings in a hurry. I've heard complaints about the "safe" ones affecting paint, rubber, etc. even though they say "safe for" right on the bottle. The next consideration is the amount of work involved on the manifold itself, particularly on a dual-plane or any manifold with an open area beneath the plenum. You have to be both very thorough and very fast. Any of those cleaners, acidic or not, will oxidize the aluminum to a dull white in a hurry. The other thing you'll want to consider is the fact that every time you clean it, it's a little more susceptible to staining. You've exposed a fresh layer of aluminum with open pores ready to accept filth or oxidation. Finally, the longer you go between cleanings, the harder each one will be.

Another possible solution would be to anodize it. This can be done safely, at home if you don't mind doing the setup and getting the needed supplies. Anodizing will slightly dull the appearance, but it won't yellow nor will it dramatically change the appearance of the alloy. It's a pretty simple process, and as long as you don't shortcut or try "close enough" many have done it with excellent results. That being said, anodizing does not make it super easy to clean. You don't need as aggressive a cleaner, but you'll still have all the labor-intensive toothbrush work. Anodizing closes the open pores on the surface making it harder to stain, but it's still a rough-cast item (no smoother than it was) so dirt will still work its way into all those little nooks and valleys. It just won't soak into the aluminum. Before attempting anodization, though, you'd do well to try a small scrap piece from a junk intake of similar manufacture. Simply put, manifolds are non-wear items so it's not like they're made from pure 6061-T6. The specific alloy of the intake might not take well to being anodized. You would also need to be particularly thorough in the cleanup phase after anodizing to ensure you didn't end up with a bunch of white pockets (excess oxidation) in the low areas of the cast surface. If this is something you're considering, follow the link I included and read the article, a couple times if necessary. Also read through the long Q&A session afterward to avoid easily-made errors. Obviously, in your case you can skip the dye process since you're after a raw look.

The only simple solutions are to fully polish it (which looks even worse than a raw casting in my humblest of opinions, but it is easy to clean) or paint it engine color, which you don't like. Maybe I'm misreading what you mean, but I'm not sure why you hate painted aluminum. It looks exactly like painted cast iron. :dance:
 
Oh, and for the record: The solution I got from the guys that built my Minilite replicas was fastidious, regular cleanings with hull cleaner ("NO POLISH!") and occasionally touching up the brushed areas by putting the wheel on a brake lathe and holding a coarse Scotch-Brite pad against it. :doh:
 
ive delt with ANO before with rc' stuff ..its VERY tough stuff and neerly impossible to stain...its worth consideration

something spring up into my head tho...what about zinc coating?..i have a shop that can likely do it..i have them do hardware all the time and its CHEEP, the reason i thought of it is ive seen some "un touched" alva v6's that have this shiny glow to them...its not paint and theres no way in hell its raw...is it a bright ano or a zinc?
 

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