Recent content by restoman

A buddy years ago had one of those oil pans in his 10 second Duster. He said the same thing about it! He also said he figured it helped the bottom end tremendously during his hard launches and high revs...

For anything left in bare steel for ay length of time, I like to get it into epoxy primer as soon as the bare steel is exposed, sandblasted, etc. You can apply filler directly over the epoxy after scuffing it with 220-ish or a good red scotchbrite. Two full-wet coats. You can roller it on, spray...

Nice work, as usual. Are you going to epoxy-prime before filler work, or go directly to filler over bare steel?

Shiiiiitttt. This really sucks.

The vinyl top is hideous, but a '71 Formula, even in that bronze, would get regular duty in my stable. IF I had a stable... ;)

The vinyl top is hideous, but a '71 Formula, even in that bronze, would get regular duty in my stable. IF I had a stable... ;)

Not much on the new car lots here beyond the first row, like 69.5 said, and those aren't selling. Price and selection is the stall-point here. Want a fully loaded Ram 4x4 four door with a Hemi? Lots of those. Want a single cab, 2 wheel drive, with any options? Sorry, you'll have to upgrade to a...

You can, or scuff with 120-180ish grit paper. Blasting might leave a textured surface that a single coat of epoxy might not be able to fill...

Epoxy prime first, then paint. Nickel is far too hard for etching-type primer to do anything. Epoxy primer's tenacious mechanical adhesion is really the only thing that can be expected to have any hope of success on hard surfaces. Two coats max. One medium-to-full-wet coat is preferred. Let it...

I read somewhere what happened to all those small pickups that we loved... seems the EPA rules are based on the physical footprint of the truck. The bigger the footprint, the less it has to achieve that great mileage that a smaller truck would, and the more profit-making junk the manufacturers...

In my opinion, dipping an entire body, while a guaranteed way to get rid of all the rust , is such a massive undertaking after the fact that it really only pays dividends on high-end, big dollar restorations. It does look good when it comes back from the dipper, and everyone who sees that...

The salt removal does leave holes in the finish, much like deteriorated paint would look like. But, if you're talking about blending, are you hoping for a more OEM look? Myself, I'd spray the roof and pillars with a blue to match the interior, put the moldings back on and go with it. $.02...

A quart of single layer white, lay down two or three coats after sprinkling some salt on the roof. When the paint is dry, brush off the painted-salt to give a weathered look, scuff the remainder with a grey scotch-brite and let the airborne contaminants dirty up the finish. Instant patina.

To those few of us guys who lived by the "t'is far better to repair than replace" creed, those are lightly rusted. I was pretty decent at filler work, painting, polishing, reassembly, and all that other nonsense, but sheetmetal repair was my Garden of Zen.

"Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of rot, I will fear no plastic: for Lincoln art with me; its wire and its shielding gas, they comfort me. 🙃" I will dwell in the booth of the paint Lord, forever and ever. Amen"